For those with a passion for ancient history, culture, and the roots of civilization, Armenia offers an exceptional destination.
Armenia (or Hayastan) isn’t a big country—about 29,743 km² with a population of around 3 million—tucked away in the South Caucasus, where West Asia meets Europe. It shares borders with Georgia, Azerbaijan (including Nakhchivan), Iran, and Turkey. But don’t let its size fool you—this place is one of the oldest continuous civilizations on Earth. It dates all the way back to the Iron Age kingdom of Urartu in the 9th century BC and hit its peak under King Tigranes II in the 1st century BC. Armenia was also the first country to officially adopt Christianity in AD 301, and later came up with its own unique alphabet thanks to Mesrop Mashtots in AD 405.
Over the centuries, Armenia has been through a lot—conquered and ruled by major empires like the Persians, Ottomans, and Russians. It first became independent in 1918, but was absorbed into the Soviet Union just two years later. It finally regained full independence in 1991.
Driven by a profound curiosity, I undertook a 19-hour journey to Armenia in early spring this year. I spent a week there to explore its rich history and the enigmatic landscapes that have sustained such a resilient civilization for thousands of years.
对于那些热爱古代历史、文化和文明起源的人来说，亚美尼亚是是必去的地方。
亚美尼亚（又称“哈亚斯坦”）并不是一个大国，国土面积约为29,743平方公里，人口大约300万。它位于南高加索地区，地处西亚与欧洲的交界，毗邻格鲁吉亚、阿塞拜疆（包括纳希切万）、伊朗和土耳其。虽然面积不大，但千万别小看这个国家——它是地球上最古老的持续文明之一。早在公元前9世纪，亚美尼亚就是乌拉尔图王国的一部分；在公元前1世纪的提格兰二世时期达到了鼎盛。亚美尼亚还是世界上第一个在公元301年正式接受基督教为国教的国家，并在公元405年，由梅斯罗布·马什托茨创制了独特的亚美尼亚字母。
几个世纪以来，亚美尼亚历经风雨，曾先后被波斯、奥斯曼和俄罗斯等强国征服和统治。它在1918年首次独立，但仅两年后就被纳入苏联体系，直到1991年才再次恢复完全独立。
出于对亚美尼亚深深的好奇，今年初春，飞行19小时， 我踏上了这块神奇的土地。在那里的一个星期里，丰富的历史遗迹与神秘的自然风貌让我赞叹不已，我也亲身感受到了一个历经千年仍屹立不倒的坚韧文明。
Day 1: The Beauty of Yerevan, the Capital of Amenia 第一天：首都埃里温之美
When I arrived at the international airport in Yerevan, the capital of Armenia, it was already past midnight. The next day morning, we started out to explore the city and take in the charm of Yerevan.
Our hotel was a bit outside the city center, so we took the subway to Republic Square and had breakfast at a nearby local restaurant. Since we headed out early, the streets were still quiet and peaceful.
The architecture immediately caught my attention—many buildings date back to the Soviet era, with boxy apartment blocks alongside unexpectedly elegant office buildings. We strolled around Republic Square (the true heart of Yerevan), passed through a local park, visited the Opera House, and wandered along Northern Avenue. Each spot had its own unique charm.
Yerevan is the largest city in Armenia, yet it feels compact and easy to navigate. With a population of just around one million， it has only one subway line. Almost all attractions are within walking distance, so getting around the city was simple and convenient.
The photos below capture street scenes from across the city in chronological order. I’ll introduce other interesting places I visited in the sections that follow.
当我抵达亚美尼亚首都埃里温的国际机场时，已经是深夜了。第二天一大早，我们开始探索这座城市，感受埃里温的魅力。
我们的酒店离市中心有点远，于是我们乘地铁前往共和国广场，在附近的一家本地餐厅吃了早餐。因为我们出门得早，街道上还很安静。
城市的建筑风格立刻吸引了我的注意——许多建筑可以追溯到苏联时期，有方方正正的住宅楼，也有出人意料的优雅办公楼。我们在共和国广场（埃里温真正的心脏地带）四处漫步，经过一个当地的公园，参观了歌剧院，还在北大街上闲逛。每个地方都有自己独特的魅力。
埃里温是亚美尼亚最大的城市，但按国际标准来说并不算大，人口大约一百万，只有一条地铁线。几乎所有的景点都在步行距离，因此游览这座城市非常轻松便捷。
我下面展示的照片都是在城市街头拍摄的，主要以拍摄时间顺序排列。其它我参观过的景点我会在接下来的部分中逐一介绍。
Yerevan City Center Map. Copy right credited to the original author.
The Street View of Yerevan 埃里温的街景
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Matenadaran – The Museum of Ancient Manuscripts 马坦纳达兰——古代手稿博物馆
The Matenadaran, also known as the Museum of Ancient Manuscripts, is one of the must-see places in Yerevan. Sitting on a hill with a great view of the city, it holds thousands of old manuscripts—some over a thousand years old! Most are in Armenian, but there are others in different languages too. It’s named after Mesrop Mashtots, the guy who created the Armenian alphabet. Inside, you’ll find beautifully written texts on everything from religion to science. It’s not just a museum—it’s also a research learning center. You’ll see many eager students entering the museum for learning.
马塔纳达兰，又称古代手稿博物馆，是埃里温不可错过的景点之一。它坐落在山坡上，可以俯瞰整座城市，馆内收藏了成千上万份古老手稿——有些已有一千多年的历史！大部分是亚美尼亚文的，也有其他语言的文献。博物馆以梅斯罗普·马什托茨命名，他是亚美尼亚字母的创造者。馆内展出了许多精美的古文书籍，内容涵盖宗教、科学、医学等多个领域。这里不仅是博物馆，还是一个学术研究中心。你会看到许多充满求知欲的学生走进馆内学习。
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The Cascade Monument, A Monument to the 50th Anniversary of the October Revolution 瀑布纪念碑——十月革命50周年纪念碑
This monument is named after its cascading shape. It’s just a 10-minute walk from the Museum of Ancient Manuscripts. The Cascade Monument probably is the most iconic landmark of Yerevan. It was built in 1967 to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the October Revolution. It’s a massive, 65-meter-tall obelisk sitting at the top of the Cascade stairway—a huge set of terraces with fountains, gardens, and sculptures. Designed by local architects, it lines up perfectly with the city’s main street and offers awesome views of Yerevan and Mount Ararat. Some parts are still unfinished, which adds to its character. Today, it’s not just a Soviet-era monument—it’s also part of a lively cultural spot with the Cafesjian Art Center nearby.
Climbing the Cascade takes a bit of effort, but it’s totally worth it—the views of the city get better with every step. No surprise it’s a favorite spot for both locals and tourists to chill out and enjoy the scenery.
这座纪念碑因其层层阶梯的外形而得名。从古代手稿博物馆步行过去只需大约10分钟。瀑布纪念碑可能是埃里温最具标志性的地标。它建于1967年，为纪念十月革命50周年。整座纪念碑是一座高达65米的巨型方尖碑，位于瀑布阶梯的最顶端——那是一组宏伟的梯形平台，配有喷泉、花园和雕塑，由本地建筑师设计，与城市的主街道完美对齐。从这里可以俯瞰埃里温全景，还能远眺亚拉拉特山。一些部分至今尚未完工，反而赋予了它一种独特的魅力。如今，它不仅是苏联时代的纪念碑，加上附近还有著名的卡菲斯基安艺术中心， 它也是一个充满活力的文化地标。
爬瀑布阶梯确实有点累，但绝对值得——每走一步，城市的景色就更心旷神怡。难怪这里成了本地人和游客最喜欢、欣赏风景的地方之一。
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Mother Armenia Monument 美尼亚母亲纪念碑
When you reach the top of the Cascade Monument, Victory Park lies to the right. It features an open-air exhibition of Soviet-era sculptures, a children’s amusement park, and most notably, the impressive Mother Armenia Monument. The Mother Armenia Monument is a huge statue of a woman holding a sword, standing tall over the city in Victory Park. Built in 1967 to replace a once statue of Stalin, she represents the strength, courage, and protective spirit of the Armenian people—like a strong mother watching over her children. The statue itself stands 22 meters tall and rests on a massive 34-meter pedestal that now houses a military museum. Inside, photos and artifacts tell the story of Armenia’s struggles and victories. Around the monument, you’ll find old cannons and tanks on display. From the square in front, you can enjoy views of the entire city.
当你登上瀑布纪念碑的顶部，右侧可见胜利公园。那里有苏联时期雕塑的露天展览、儿童游乐园，以及最引人注目的——雄伟的“亚美尼亚母亲”纪念碑。
亚美尼亚母亲纪念碑是一座巨大的女性塑像，手持宝剑，矗立在胜利公园，俯瞰城市。它建于1967年，取代曾经的斯大林雕像，象征着亚美尼亚人民的力量、勇气和守护精神——如同一位坚强的母亲守护着她的孩子们。雕像本身高达22米，矗立在一个巨大的34米高底座上，如今底座内部设有一座军事博物馆。馆内的照片和文物讲述了亚美尼亚人民的苦难与胜利。
纪念碑周围陈列着旧式的大炮和坦克。从纪念碑前的广场上，可以俯瞰整个城市的景色。
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Republic Square 共和国广场
Republic Square is the heart of Yerevan and one of Armenia’s most iconic public spaces. Many interesting sites are within walking distance, so we passed by the square several times during our visit. I’ve included photos here from different times of day to capture its changing atmosphere.
Designed by architect Alexander Tamanyan in 1924, the square is surrounded by majestic pink tuff buildings, including the Government House, the National Gallery, and the Marriott Hotel. In the evenings, the square comes alive with its famous singing fountains, which dance to classical, folk, and pop music—drawing both locals and tourists. It’s a popular spot for public events, concerts, and national celebrations. Republic Square perfectly blends history, beauty, and culture.
共和国广场是埃里温的心脏，也是亚美尼亚最具代表性的公共场所之一。周围有许多吸引人的景点， 它们都在步行范围内，因此我们在游览中间多次经过这里。我在这里分享不同时间拍摄的照片，希望能展现广场不同时刻的风情。
共和国广场由建筑师亚历山大·塔曼扬于1924年设计，四周环绕着端庄威严的粉红色凝灰岩建筑，包括政府大楼、国家美术馆和万豪酒店。夜晚时分，广场因其著名的音乐喷泉而变得热闹非凡，喷泉伴随着古典、民俗和流行音乐起舞，吸引了大量当地居民和游客。这里是举办公共活动、音乐会和国家庆典的热门场所。共和国广场完美地融合了历史、美景与文化。
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Dolmama – Armenia’s Restaurant Dolmama——亚美尼亚餐厅
We had lunch at the famous Dolmama—Armenia’s iconic restaurant. It’s a small place, and its entrance is easy to miss unless someone points it out. But don’t be fooled by the modest exterior. Dolmama is a upscale restaurant in Yerevan, known for its modern take on traditional Eastern Armenian cuisine. Founded in 1998, it reimagines classic dishes like dolma and lamb stew using fresh, local ingredients. Tucked away in a cozy, art-filled space near Republic Square, it’s a favorite not only among locals and tourists, but also celebrities and notable political figures—you can see their photos on the walls.
After lunch, we had a lovely chat with the owner, a kind and welcoming middle-aged woman who gave us a personal tour of the restaurant, even showing us the backyard. We got so caught up in the conversation that both sides completely forgot about the bill! It was a bit embarrassing—we ended up paying the next day in the hotel lobby after the owner tracked us down through the hotel manager. Of course, we gave her a generous tip to make up for the mix-up..
我们在著名的 Dolmama 餐厅享用了午餐——这是一家在亚美尼亚颇具代表性的餐厅。它不大，而且入口非常不起眼，如果没有人带你，很容易错过。但千万别被外表欺骗。Dolmama 是一家高档餐厅，以现代风格重新演绎传统的东亚美尼亚菜肴。餐厅创立于1998年，用当地时令食材巧妙地改良了像葡萄叶包肉（dolma）和炖羊肉这样的经典菜式。
它藏身于共和国广场附近一个布满艺术品的温馨空间里，不仅深受当地人和游客喜爱，也吸引了不少名人和政要——你可以在墙上看到许多他们的合影。
午餐后，我们和店主聊得非常愉快。她是一位热情友好的中年女士，还亲自带我们参观了她的餐厅，甚至包括后院。我们聊得太投入，结果双方都忘了结账！真是有点尴尬——第二天她通过酒店经理找到了我们，我们才在酒店大堂补上了账单。当然，我们也给了她一笔不小的小费，以表达歉意。
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The Ararat Brandy Factory in Yerevan 埃里温的阿拉拉特白兰地工厂
After lunch, we visited the Ararat Brandy Factory in Yerevan. This wine factory was founded in 1887, and perched on a hill overlooking the Hrazdan River. It produces the world-famous ArArAt cognac using traditional French techniques. We enjoyed exploring the aging cellars, visiting the on-site museum, and especially tasting their premium brandies—some aged 10, 15, or even 30 years. Although I’m not a fan of alcohol, I bought a couple of bottles of their brandy as souvenirs.
午餐后，我们参观了埃里温的阿拉拉特白兰地酒厂。这家酒厂始建于1887年，坐落在俯瞰赫拉兹丹河的山丘上。这里采用传统的法国工艺酿造享誉世界的亚拉拉特白兰地。我们参观了陈酿酒窖和现场博物馆，尤其喜欢品尝那些陈酿了10年、15年甚至30年的优质白兰地。
虽然我不好酒这一口，但我还是买了几瓶他们的白兰地作为纪念品。
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Blue mosque in the city 市内的蓝色清真寺
After a long day of walking, we sat down for dinner at a Persian restaurant. The Iranian cuisine was amazing, and afterward, we took a stroll along the street. To our surprise, we stumbled upon the Blue Mosque.
This mosque is indeed called the Blue Mosque. It’s a peaceful 18th-century Shia Islamic mosque and one of the few remaining examples of Persian architecture in Armenia. Built in 1766, it features a beautiful turquoise dome, graceful arches, and a quiet courtyard. Today, it also serves as an Iranian cultural center.
It was too dark for a proper visit, but standing in the courtyard, I could feel a mysterious, almost magical charm that only the night could bring.
经历了一整天的徒步游览之后，我们坐在一家波斯餐厅享用晚餐。伊朗菜非常美味。饭后，我们沿着街道散步，意外地发现了一座伊朗的蓝色清真寺。
这座清真寺确实名为“蓝色清真寺”，是一座宁静的18世纪什叶派清真寺，也是亚美尼亚仅存的波斯建筑代表之一。它建于1766年，拥有美丽的青绿色圆顶、优雅的拱门和静谧的庭院。如今，这里也作为伊朗文化中心对外开放。
虽然天色已晚，我们无法一窥全貌，但站在清真寺的庭院中，我感受到了一种只有夜晚才能带来的神秘而奇幻的魅力。
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Day 2: Geghard Monastery, Garni Canyon Symphony of Stones, and Garni Temple 第二天: 格加尔德修道院、加尼峡谷石头交响曲、加尼神庙
After a relaxing day touring the city, we decided it was time to explore some historical sites outside Yerevan. We booked a private tour—surprisingly affordable!—to visit a few landmarks that were close to one another.
As we drove slowly out of the city, we really enjoyed the views along the way. It was early spring, and the weather felt mild, though a bit chilly when the breeze hit our faces. The grasslands were starting to turn green, and the apricot blossoms had just begun to bloom. In the distance, we could just make out Mount Ararat under a hazy sky.
After about a 40-minute drive, the Geghard Monastery complex came into view. It was originally founded in the 4th century by Gregory the Illuminator—the religious figure credited with converting Armenia to Christianity in 301 CE. The monastery is tucked away at the entrance of the Azat Valley, surrounded by steep cliffs and dramatic scenery.
A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Geghard is one of Armenia’s most impressive religious landmarks. What makes it even more special is that part of it is carved right into the mountainside. Most of the existing buildings date back to the 13th century. The name “Geghard” means “spear,” referring to the legendary spear that wounded Christ, which was once housed here. The rock-cut churches, detailed stone carvings, and khachkars (Armenian cross-stones) are simply stunning. It’s not just beautiful—it also has a peaceful, spiritual energy that you can really feel as you walk around.
在城市里轻松游玩了一天后，我们决定前往城市外的历史遗址参观。我们订了一趟私人导览行程，去相隔不远的几个景点。 出乎意料， 私人导览价格意外地实惠。
从市区出发，驱车慢驰， 可以欣赏道路两边的景色。 初春的天气相当温和，只是偶尔有微风拂面时会觉得有点凉。草地开始泛绿，杏花也刚刚绽放。在薄雾中，远处还能依稀看到亚拉拉特山的轮廓。
大约40分钟后，格加尔德修道院群便映入眼帘。这座修道院最早由“启蒙者格里高利”在4世纪建立，他是将亚美尼亚从异教信仰转变为基督教的关键人物（公元301年）。修道院位于阿扎特山谷入口处，地势偏远，四周是险峻的悬崖和壮丽的自然风光。
格加尔德修道院是联合国教科文组织认定的世界文化遗产，也是亚美尼亚最令著名的宗教遗迹之一。它的特别之处在于——部分建筑是直接凿山而建。现存的主要结构建于13世纪。修道院名为“Geghard”，意为“长矛”，指的是曾保存在此的那支刺伤耶稣的传说中的圣矛。整个修道院群拥有精美的山体教堂、石刻艺术和亚美尼亚特色的十字石（Khachkar），让人赞叹不已。不仅建筑令人震撼，整个地方还散发着一种宁静而神圣的氛围，漫步其中，真的能感受到它的灵性与历史厚重感。
Geghard Monastery 格加尔德修道院
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Garni Symphony of Stones 加尔尼“石之交响曲”
The Garni Symphony of Stones is tucked away in Garni Canyon, near the village of Garni and not far from Yerevan. They are towering basalt columns shaped like long hexagonal pipes that line the cliffs, making it look like a giant stone organ. That’s where the name “Symphony of Stones” comes from. These crazy rock formations were formed over thousands of years as volcanic lava cooled and cracked. The Azat River flows nearby, and the area is surrounded by lush greenery. It’s a super unique and beautiful natural spot—definitely worth the visit!
加尔尼“石之交响曲”藏在加尔尼峡谷里，距离加尔尼村不远，也离埃里温很近。这是一些像六边形的长管一样排列在悬崖上高耸的玄武岩柱，看起来就像是一架巨大的石头风琴，这是“石之交响曲”这个名字的由来。这些奇特的岩石是几千年前火山熔岩冷却并开裂后自然形成的。阿扎特河从旁边流过，周围绿意盎然。这真的是一处独一无二的自然景观，非常值得一游！
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Garni Temple 加尼神庙
Located in Garni village, Garni Temple, often called Garni Church, is a 1st-century pagan temple. Dedicated to the sun god Mihr, it’s the only Greco-Roman colonnaded structure in Armenia. With its grand pillars, mountain backdrop, and rich history, Garni offers a unique glimpse into Armenia’s pre-Christian past.
加尼神庙位于加尼村，通常被称为加尼教堂，是一座建于公元一世纪的异教神庙。它供奉太阳神米尔，是亚美尼亚唯一一座希腊罗马柱廊式建筑。加尼神庙以其雄伟的柱廊、依山而建的背景和丰富的历史，为人们提供了一个独特的视角，让人们一窥亚美尼亚基督教传入之前的悠久历史。
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Left the Garni Temple around 3 PM, heading back to Yerevan. With plenty of daylight left, we decided to visit the Tsitsernakaberd Genocide Memorial.
下午3点左右，我们离开了加尔尼神庙，驱车返回埃里温。当时天色还很亮，于是我们决定前往参观亚美尼亚种族灭绝纪念馆。
Tsitsernakaberd Genocide Memorial 亚美尼亚种族灭绝纪念馆
This powerful memorial is dedicated to the 1.5 million victims of the Armenian Genocide. Located in Yerevan, it features a 44-meter stele symbolizing rebirth and twelve inward-leaning slabs that encircle an eternal flame, representing the twelve lost provinces. An adjacent museum further documents the horrific events. The genocide was perpetrated by the Ottoman government, specifically the ruling Committee of Union and Progress (CUP), also known as the Young Turks, during and after World War I (1915-1923).
这座庄严的纪念馆是为了纪念150万亚美尼亚种族灭绝受害者而设立的。它位于埃里温，设有一座象征重生的44米高纪念碑，以及十二块向内倾斜的石板，环绕着永恒之火，代表着失去的十二个省份。旁边还有一个博物馆，详细记录了这场骇人听闻的事件。这场种族灭绝是由奥斯曼政府，特别是青年土耳其党（即“统一与进步委员会”），在第一次世界大战期间及之后（1915-1923年）所犯下的。
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Saint Gregory the Illuminator Cathedral 圣格里高利启蒙者主教座堂
The feelings of horror from the memorial were partially eased by a visit to the Saint Gregory the Illuminator Cathedral afterwards. This is the largest cathedral of the Armenian Apostolic Church in Yerevan. Consecrated in 2001 to mark 1700 years of Christianity in Armenia, its grand scale and traditional Armenian architectural style, featuring distinctive orange tufa stone, make it a prominent landmark in the capital. It also houses relics of Saint Gregory the Illuminator.
参观完纪念馆后，我们内心那种恐惧感在一定程度上被随后参观的圣格里高利启蒙者主教座堂所抚慰。这是埃里温最大的亚美尼亚使徒教会主教座堂。它于2001 年落成，以纪念亚美尼亚基督教化1700周年。其宏伟的规模和传统的亚美尼亚建筑风格，特别是独特的橙色凝灰岩，使其成为首都的地标性建筑。教堂内还供奉着圣格里高利启蒙者的圣物。
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Day 3: Northern Amenia: Alverdi and Lori Region: Sanahin and Haghpat Monasteries, 第三天: 阿尔韦尔迪和洛里地区：萨纳欣和哈格帕特修道院
Today’s trip was a happy accident! We completely forgot to book anything, so we spontaneously hired a taxi driver heading to northern Armenia to visit its famous monasteries, some of which are quite close to Turkey.
Despite the overcast weather as we drove towards Alaverdi, the scenery was breathtaking. We could still clearly see snow-capped peaks, including the highest mountain in the region, once belonging to Amenai, now located in Turkey.
Our first stop was the capital of Alaverdi, also called Alaverdi. It’s nestled in a truly picturesque location. I’d call it more of a small town than a city, with just one major street. Along this street, you can see a mix of Russian and Armenian architectural styles, and there are still strong remnants of the Soviet Union era – from stone statues to deserted factories and a small train station (I’m not sure if it’s still operational).
As we passed a barbershop, a young Armenian girl asked me to take her picture. I happily did, but the language barrier made it impossible to figure out how to send her the photos. I truly hope she gets to see her picture in this blog!
今天这趟旅行完全是个美丽的意外！我们忘记预订今天的行程了，所以临时决定包了一辆出租车，前往亚美尼亚北部，去参观靠近土耳其边境著名的修道院。
尽管我们开车前往阿拉韦尔迪时天气阴沉，但沿途的风景还是美得令人窒息。我们仍然能清楚地看到白雪皑皑的山峰，包括该地区最高的山脉，它曾经属于亚美尼亚，现在位于土耳其境内。
我们的第一站是阿拉韦尔迪的首府，也叫阿拉韦尔迪。它坐落在一个风景如画的地方。我会称它为一个小镇而不是一个城市，因为它只有一条主街。沿着这条街，你可以看到俄罗斯和亚美尼亚混合的建筑风格，还能强烈感受到苏联时期的遗迹——从石像到废弃的工厂，还有一个小火车站（我不确定它是否还在运营）。
当我们经过一家理发店时，一位年轻的亚美尼亚姑娘请我给她拍张照片。我欣然照办了，但语言障碍让我无法弄清楚如何把照片发给她。我真诚地希望她能在这篇博客里看到自己的照片！
Small Town Alverdi 尔韦尔迪小镇
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Haghpat Monastery哈赫帕特修道院
Under a light drizzle, we drove about 40 minutes from Alaverdi and arrived at Haghpat Monastery—a UNESCO World Heritage Site nestled in the hills of northern Armenia. Built in the 10th century, it’s a beautiful blend of Byzantine and traditional Armenian styles, featuring ancient churches, chapels, and a tranquil old library. As the rain grew heavier, we stood inside the centuries-old stone walls, looking out at the mist-covered mountains—it felt like the past was quietly brushing against the present.
在细雨中，我们从阿拉韦尔迪驱车约40分钟，抵达了哈赫帕特修道院——一处坐落于亚美尼亚北部群山中的联合国教科文组织世界遗产。修道院建于10世纪，是拜占庭与本地亚美尼亚风格的绝美融合，院内有古老的教堂、礼拜堂和一座宁静的图书馆。当雨渐大，我站在这座古老建筑的屋檐下，望着迷雾缭绕的群山，仿佛过去的时光正悄然与现实交汇。
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Sanahin Monastery 桑欣修道院
Sanahin Monastery was our final stop of the day, mostly due to the heavy rain. Like Haghpat, it features a similar architectural style—it’s also a 10th-century UNESCO World Heritage Site in Armenia’s Lori Province. The church, chapel, and library stand out for their unique “domed hall” design. Maybe it was the rain or the remote location, but only three other visitors were there besides us.
由于大雨，桑欣寺修道院成为我们今天的最后一站。它与Haghpat修道院风格相似，同样是位于亚美尼亚洛里省的10世纪联合国教科文组织世界遗产。修道院的教堂、小礼拜堂和图书馆以独特的“圆顶大厅”设计而闻名。也许是因为雨太大，或者因为这里较为偏远，除了我们之外，只有另外三位游客。
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The rain finally stopped as we returned to Yerevan. Along the road from the northern border, there was little greenery, and most of the mountains were still covered in snow—a striking contrast to the landscapes we had seen in the south (see section on the southern trip).
雨终于在我们返回埃里温时停了。沿着从北部边境回来的道路，几乎看不到绿意，大多数山脉仍然被白雪覆盖——这与我们在南部所见的景色形成了鲜明的对比（见南部行程部分）。
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Day 4: Lake Seven and Dilijan 第四天: 塞凡湖和小镇迪利然
By chance, I accidentally booked a group tour. More than fifty people from different countries shared the same bus, but fortunately the tour guide did an excellent job, allowing us to fully enjoy Lake Sevan and the nearby sights. Our first stop was Lake Sevan, often called the “Pearl of Armenia.” It is the country’s largest lake and one of the world’s highest freshwater lakes. Its vast, shimmering waters, set against rugged mountains, create a scene of serene majesty. On a peninsula that was once an island stands Sevanavank Monastery, founded in 874 AD by Princess Mariam. The monastery consists of two ancient churches—the Church of the Holy Apostles and the Church of the Holy Mother of God—whose dark stone walls stand in striking contrast to the lake’s deep blue. From the monastery’s hilltop, the panoramic view of Lake Sevan is simply unforgettable.
出于偶然，我不小心订了一个跟团游。 不同国家的五十多人一起乘坐一辆大巴，但幸运的是，导游做得非常出色，让我们得以尽情欣赏塞凡湖及附近的景点。第一站是常被称为“亚美尼亚的明珠”的塞凡湖，是该国最大的湖泊，也是世界上海拔最高的淡水湖之一。浩瀚而闪耀的湖水映衬着崎岖的群山，营造出静谧而庄严的景致。在一个曾经是岛屿的半岛上，矗立着由玛丽亚姆公主于公元874年建立的塞凡纳旺克修道院。修道院包括两座古老的教堂——圣使徒教堂和圣母教堂——其深色的石墙与湖泊的湛蓝形成鲜明对比。从修道院的山顶眺望，塞凡湖的全景令人难以忘怀。
Lake Seven and Sevanavank Monastery 塞凡湖和塞凡纳旺克修道院
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Dilijan迪利然小镇
After visiting Lake Sevan, our group arrived in the resort town of Dilijan. Often called “Armenia’s Little Switzerland,” Dilijan is a picturesque town nestled in the country’s lush northern forests. With its serene pine-covered hills, charming stone houses, and historic monasteries such as Haghartsin and Goshavank, it offers a perfect blend of natural beauty, cultural heritage, and tranquil mountain retreat.
在参观完塞凡湖后，我们一行抵达了度假小镇迪利然。迪利然常被称为“亚美尼亚的小瑞士”，位于该国北部茂密的森林中，是一座风景如画的城镇。这里有宁静的松林山丘、迷人的石屋，以及像哈加尔辛修道院和戈沙万克修道院这样的历史古迹，自然美景、文化遗产与宁静的山间度假氛围完美融合。
Town Center 镇中心
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Goshavank monastery，a 12th–13th century complex renowned for its medieval Armenian architecture 戈沙万克修道院是一座建于12至13世纪的建筑群，以其中世纪亚美尼亚建筑风格闻名。
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Haghartsin Monastery, built in the 10th–13th centuries, featuring stone churches, intricate carvings, and peaceful courtyards 哈加尔辛修道院建于10至13世纪，拥有石砌教堂、精美雕刻和宁静的庭院。
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Day 5: Southern Amenia Trip: Khor Virap, Noravank Monastery, the Areni Cave, and Winery 第 5 天：阿米尼亚南部之旅：科尔维拉普修道院、诺拉万克修道院、阿雷尼洞穴和酒庄
Khor Virap 科尔维拉普修道院
Khor Virap is a historic Armenian monastery located in the Ararat Plain, near the border with Turkey. Its significance as a monastery and pilgrimage site stems from the fact that Gregory the Illuminator was imprisoned here for 13 years by King Tiridates III of Armenia. The monastery offers breathtaking views of Mount Ararat and features a fortress-like church complex built upon ancient foundations.
科尔维拉普修道院是一座位于亚美尼亚阿拉拉特平原、靠近土耳其边境的历史修道院。它作为修道院和朝圣地的重要性源于格里高利·启蒙者曾在此被亚美尼亚国王提里达特三世囚禁长达13年。修道院可俯瞰壮丽的阿拉拉特山，并由建在古老基址上的堡垒式教堂建筑群组成。
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Noravank Monastery 诺拉万克修道院
Noravank Monastery, built in the 12th century, rests within a breathtaking red-rock canyon in southern Armenia. Its most celebrated church, Surp Astvatsatsin, is distinguished by exquisite stone carvings and a unique two-story design. At the monastery’s entrance, early cherry blossoms scatter soft pink against the rugged cliffs—a gentle reminder of life’s continuity across the ages.
诺拉万克修道院建于12世纪，坐落在亚美尼亚南部壮丽的红岩峡谷中。其最著名的圣母教堂以精美的石雕和独特的双层设计而闻名。在修道院入口处，早春的樱花将淡淡的粉色点缀在崎岖的红色悬崖前——温柔地提醒着人们，生命自古绵延不息。
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The Areni Cave, Oldest Winery in the World 阿雷尼一号洞穴，世界上最古老的酒庄
The Areni-1 Cave in southern Armenia houses the world’s oldest known winery, dating back 6,100 years. Archaeologists have uncovered ancient fermentation vats, wine presses, storage jars, grape seeds, and drinking cups, though only a portion of these artifacts is on display. At a workshop near the entrance, we watched a local artist craft wine pottery.
位于亚美尼亚南部的阿雷尼一号洞穴是世界上已知最古老的酿酒遗址，可追溯至6100年前。考古学家在此发现了古代的发酵槽、压酒器、储酒罐、葡萄籽和饮酒器具，但只有一部分文物对公众展出。在入口附近的工作坊里，我们观看了一位当地艺术家制作葡萄酒陶器。
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Hin Areni Vineyard 欣阿雷尼葡萄园
After visiting the ancient winery site, we headed to the modern Hin Areni Vineyard, located near the Areni-1 Cave. The vineyard cultivates indigenous grape varieties using traditional methods. We explored the vines and wine-making process, enjoyed tastings and lunch, and before leaving, purchased several bottles of wine produced on-site.
参观完古老的酿酒遗址后，我们前往位于阿雷尼一号洞穴附近的现代酒庄——欣阿雷尼葡萄园。该酒庄采用传统方法种植本土葡萄品种。我们参观了葡萄园和酿酒过程，品尝了葡萄酒并享用午餐。离开前，我们还购买了几瓶酒庄出产的葡萄酒。
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On the Way Back to Yerevan 返回埃里温的路上
On the way back to Yerevan, it was a sporadically rainy day, but the weather was much warmer than our travels in the north. There was no snow, and the landscape had turned greener. Along the road, we passed rolling green hills, flocks of sheep grazing, and scattered farmhouses, offering a glimpse of rural Armenian life.
在返回埃里温的路上，天空零星飘着小雨，但天气比我们在北部旅行时温暖得多。没有积雪，土地变得更加翠绿。沿途，我们看到了起伏的绿丘、在路边吃草的羊群，以及星星点点的农舍，展现出亚美尼亚乡村生活的景象。
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Day 6 Visit to Gyumri, Armenian Symbol of the History and Architecture. 第六天：见识久姆里——亚美尼亚历史与建筑的象征
Today’s tour destination was Gyumri, marking our last day in Armenia before heading to Tbilisi, the capital of Georgia, tomorrow. Gyumri is Armenia’s second-largest city, located about 120 km north of Yerevan. Known for its history, arts, and resilience, the city carries centuries of history and a raw, authentic charm shaped in part by the devastating 1988 earthquake. This historic city truly deserves more time to explore, but unfortunately, we could only spend a single day here.
今天的旅行目的地是久姆里。这是我们在亚美尼亚的最后一天，明天将前往格鲁吉亚首都第比利斯。久姆里是亚美尼亚的第二大城市，位于埃里温以北约120公里处。它以历史、艺术和坚韧著称，这座城市在数百年的历史积淀中，因1988年那场毁灭性的地震而增添了一份独特的真实与厚重。久姆里是一座值得花更多时间探索的历史名城，但遗憾的是，我们只能在这里停留一天。
City View and Charles Aznavour Square 城市景观和夏尔·阿兹纳武尔广场
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Sev Berd or Black Fortress 塞夫贝尔德或黑色堡垒和邻近的亚美尼亚母亲纪念碑
Sev Berd, commonly known as the Black Fortress, is a powerful symbol of Armenia’s military past. Built in the 1830s by the Imperial Russian army after the Russo-Turkish War, the fortress was strategically positioned on a high plateau overlooking the city, allowing soldiers to monitor and defend the region against potential invasions. Its circular structure, constructed from dark volcanic tuff, gives the fortress its characteristic black appearance and its evocative name. Over time, as military technologies and borders changed, the fortress gradually lost its strategic importance. Today, Sev Berd stands as a cultural and architectural monument, offering visitors panoramic views of Gyumri and the surrounding Shirak plain.
Located near the Sev Berd (Black Fortress) stands the Mother Armenia Monument. Completed in 1975, the statue portrays a tall and dignified female figure holding a sword pointed downward—a stance that symbolizes both vigilance and peace. For locals and visitors alike, this monument serves as a poignant reminder of Armenia’s turbulent past, its long struggle for independence, and the enduring spirit of its people. Its setting beside the Black Fortress further enriches its meaning, creating a powerful visual and historical dialogue between military heritage and national identity.
塞夫贝尔德（Sev Berd），又称“黑色堡垒”，是亚美尼亚军事历史的重要象征。该堡垒建于19世纪30年代，由俄罗斯帝国军队在俄土战争结束后修筑。它雄踞于高地之上，俯瞰整座城市，战略位置优越，使守军能够有效监控并防御来自周边地区的潜在威胁。堡垒采用独特的环形设计，以深色火山凝灰岩砌筑，其沉稳厚重的黑色外观，也正是其名称的由来。
随着军事技术的演进与疆界变迁，塞夫贝尔德的战略作用逐渐减弱。如今，它作为一处文化遗产与建筑遗迹，吸引众多游客前来，不仅可由此眺望久姆里及希拉克平原的壮丽全景，更成为探寻当地历史的一扇重要窗口。
坐落在塞夫贝尔德（黑色堡垒）旁，是亚美尼亚母亲纪念碑。该雕像于1975年落成，塑造了一位高大庄严的女性形象，她手中长剑向下——这一姿态既象征警惕，也寓意和平。对当地居民和游客而言，这座纪念碑沉重而深刻地提醒着亚美尼亚动荡的往昔、漫长的独立斗争以及人民不屈的精神。它与黑色堡垒比邻而立，进一步丰富了其内涵，在军事遗产与民族认同之间，构建出一场震撼的视觉与历史对话。
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The Museum of the National Architecture and Urban Life and Cathedral of the Holy Martyrs
The Museum of the National Architecture and Urban Life of Gyumri houses in a beautifully preserved 19th-century mansion once belonging to the Dzitoghtsyan family, the museum showcases traditional urban life, craftsmanship, and the distinctive architectural styles of the Shirak region. Its exhibits include household items, tools, textiles, photographs, and furnishings that reflect the daily life of Gyumri’s residents during the late 1800s and early 1900s. Next door is Cathedral of the Holy Martyrs, a modern Armenian Apostolic church built to honor the victims of the Armenian Genocide.
久姆里国家建筑与城市生活博物馆坐落于一栋精美修复的19世纪宅邸内，这里曾是Dzitoghtsyan家族的故居。博物馆生动展现了希拉克地区独特的建筑风格、传统手工艺与城市生活风貌。馆内陈列着家居用品、工具、纺织品、照片及家具等展品，真实反映了19世纪末至20世纪初久姆里市民的日常生活景象。
毗邻博物馆的圣殉道者大教堂，是一座现代亚美尼亚使徒教堂，为纪念亚美尼亚种族灭绝的受害者而建。
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Monumental Iron Fountain and Ruined The FeZe Dormitory
The Monumental Iron Fountain, crafted in the 19th century by skilled local blacksmiths, showcases intricate ironwork and reflects Gyumri’s long-standing tradition of metal craftsmanship. Beyond its aesthetic beauty, the fountain stands as a resilient witness to the city’s history, having survived the devastating 1988 Spitak earthquake that destroyed much of Gyumri.
Nearby lies the “Feze” Dormitory, once a bustling residence for students and workers, which was heavily damaged in the same earthquake. Today, the dormitory serves as a somber reminder of the city’s vulnerability to natural disasters and the profound impact of the earthquake on Gyumri’s urban landscape.
铸铁纪念喷泉由当地技艺精湛的铁匠于19世纪打造，其精美的铁艺雕饰展现了久姆里悠久的金属工艺传统。除了艺术价值，这座喷泉更是城市历史的坚韧见证者——它在1988年毁灭性的斯皮塔克地震中幸存，而当时久姆里大部分建筑都未能幸免。
喷泉不远处是“Feze”宿舍楼，这里曾是学生与工人往来不绝的居住区，同在那场地震中严重损毁。如今，这栋建筑如同肃穆的纪念碑，警示着城市面对自然灾害的脆弱，也默默诉说着地震为久姆里城市肌理留下的深刻伤痕。
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Kumayri Historic District 库马里历史老区
The Kumayri Historic District, the oldest part of Gyumri, showcases a unique blend of traditional Armenian architecture and European influences, particularly from the 18th and 19th centuries. Its streets are lined with elegant stone houses, ornate balconies, and intricate facades, many built from black and red volcanic tuff, giving the district a distinctive and picturesque character. Despite suffering significant damage during the 1988 Spitak earthquake, many structures have been carefully restored, preserving Kumayri’s historical charm and architectural heritage.
Kumayri has long been the cultural and commercial heart of the city, hosting artisan workshops, marketplaces, and community hubs that reflect Gyumri’s vibrant urban life. Rustaveli Avenue and Abovyan Street are lined with cafés, small shops, and bakeries, while the central market bustles with fresh cheese, honey, herbs, and homemade preserves—perfect for tasting local flavors. Locals are known for their wit and friendliness; I even noticed a wall of humorous anecdotes and playful phrases posted along the streets.
The district not only tells the story of Gyumri’s evolution over centuries but also stands as a testament to Armenian architectural ingenuity, cultural identity, and resilience, offering visitors an authentic and immersive experience of the city’s enduring spirit.
库马里历史区是久姆里最古老的街区，这里融合了传统亚美尼亚建筑与欧洲（尤其是18至19世纪）风格的影响。街道两旁矗立着雅致的石砌房屋、雕花阳台与繁复库马里历史区是久姆里最古老的街区，融合了传统亚美尼亚建筑与欧洲风情，尤以18至19世纪风格最为显著。街道两旁矗立着雅致的石屋、雕花阳台与繁复的立面，大量建筑采用黑红两色火山凝灰岩砌成，赋予整片街区独特而如画的韵味。尽管在1988年斯皮塔克地震中遭受重创，多数建筑已得到精心修复，完好保留了库马里的历史魅力与建筑遗产。
库马里长期作为这座城市的文化与商业核心，遍布工匠作坊、市集和社区聚点，尽显久姆里蓬勃的都市活力。鲁斯塔维利大街与阿博维扬街两侧咖啡馆、小商铺与面包房林立，中央市集里新鲜奶酪、蜂蜜、香草和自制果酱熙攘纷呈，正是品味本地风味的绝佳去处。当地人素以幽默友善著称——我甚至留意到街头贴满了诙谐轶事与俏皮短语的“幽默墙”。
这片街区不仅诉说着久姆里数百年的变迁，更见证了亚美尼亚建筑智慧、文化认同与不屈精神，为访客献上一场真实而沉浸的城市灵魂之旅。
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Harichavank Monastery 哈里查万克修道院
Sunset in Armenia comes quite late, giving us enough time to stop at Harichavank Monastery on our way back to Yerevan. Dating back to the 7th century, the monastery features an impressive cathedral complex, including the Cathedral of the Holy Mother of God and the Church of St. Gregory the Enlightener. Perched on the edge of a picturesque gorge, Harichavank remains active today and continues to support a functioning seminary.
亚美尼亚的日落来得颇晚，这让我们有时间在返回埃里温的途中造访哈里查万克修道院。这座修道院的历史可追溯至7世纪，拥有令人眼睛一亮的大教堂建筑群，包括圣圣母主教座堂与启蒙者圣格里高利教堂。修道院坐落于风景如画的峡谷边缘，至今仍活跃如初，院内还设有一所正常运作的神学院。
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Yazidi Temple in Rya Taza 里亚塔扎村的雅兹迪神庙
Not far from Gyumri, we passed the Yazidi temple in Rya Taza in Aragatsotn Province. Its distinctive conical white domes and tranquil atmosphere reflect traditional Yazidi sacred architecture inspired by the holy site of Lalish in Iraq. Most residents of Rya Taza are Sipki Yezidis who migrated to the Aparan region from Kars in the 19th century.
在离久姆里不远处，我们途经位于阿拉加措特恩省里亚塔扎村的雅兹迪神庙。神庙独特的白色锥形穹顶与宁静氛围，体现了传承自伊拉克拉利什圣地的传统雅兹迪神圣建筑风格。里亚塔扎村的大多数居民为19世纪从卡尔斯迁居至阿帕兰地区的斯普基雅兹迪人。
Road Scenes from Yerevan to Gyumri 埃里温至久姆里公路风光
The scenery along the road to Gyumri was breathtaking. In the distance, snow-capped mountains rose against the sky, while lush green grass spread across the foreground, dotted with quiet farmhouses along the way. The air was fresh and sweet, and the clouds felt close enough to touch. The photos here captured moments from both our journey to Gyumri and our return.
前往久姆里的沿途风光，美得令人屏息。远处雪山巍峨，接天连碧；近处绿野绵延，静谧农舍点缀其间。空气清甜，云朵仿佛触手可及。此处照片记录了我们前往久姆里与返程途中的动人瞬间。
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Armenian People 亚美尼亚人民
The Armenian people are warm, friendly, and welcoming. Despite the many hardships they have faced throughout history, their spirit remains resilient, humorous, and optimistic. Here, they have created a lasting culture, magnificent architecture, and extraordinary literature. During my visit, I captured several images of ordinary people, and I’ve gathered them here as a small tribute to their enduring strength, character, and creativity.
亚美尼亚人民热情友善、真挚好客。尽管在历史长河中历经无数艰辛，他们依然保持着坚韧不拔、幽默乐观的精神风貌。正是在这片土地上，他们创造了悠久的文化、宏伟的建筑与卓越的文学。我在此行中记录了一些普通人的身影，谨以这些影像集结于此，向这个民族永恒的生命力、品格与创造力致敬。
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