Tbilisi: The Soul of Georgia, the Heart of the Caucasus 第比利斯：格鲁吉亚之魂, 高加索的心脏

Georgia, a close neighbor to Armenia, lies at the crossroads of Europe and Asia. Its capital, Tbilisi, is renowned for its blend of history, culture, and stunning landscapes. Shaped over the centuries by Persians, Arabs, Mongols, Ottomans, and Russians, the city carries a rich legacy in its architecture, religion, and cuisine. After completing my tour of Armenia, I was eager to visit this remarkably charming city.

Traveling from Armenia to Georgia is very convenient. Regular buses, trains, and flights connect Yerevan and Tbilisi. We took an early morning bus to Tbilisi. It was a small vehicle, filled with a mix of passengers—locals, foreigners, and fellow travelers from Georgia. The route toward Tbilisi follows the same road to Dilijan and Alaverdi, and once again, I was captivated by the dramatic stone mountains and rugged scenery along the way.

After about four hours, we arrived at the Armenia–Georgia border. The process was quick and smooth, as the two countries maintain friendly relations and my nationality enjoys visa-free entry. I also noticed that most of the X-ray machines and other equipment at the border crossing both countries were made in China.

Upon entering Georgia, the weather immediately felt warmer and the landscape greener. About an hour later, the bus stopped at a shopping center on the outskirts of Tbilisi. From there, we used Yandex—Georgia’s equivalent of Uber—to reach our hotel near Freedom Square, right next to the Old Town. From this point, our journey through the famous city began.

格鲁吉亚是亚美尼亚的近邻，坐落在欧亚交界之处。首都第比利斯，更以历史、文化与自然风光的完美融合而闻名。几个世纪以来，波斯、阿拉伯、蒙古、奥斯曼与俄罗斯的文明在座城市里这交汇，于建筑、宗教与美食中留下深刻的印记，塑造出多元而丰富的城市风貌。结束亚美尼亚的行程后，我已迫不及待想要走进这座魅力之城，一探其独特的风采。

从亚美尼亚前往格鲁吉亚非常便捷。亚美尼亚首都埃里温与第比利斯之间通有定期的巴士、火车和航班。我们选择了清晨出发的巴士，车厢不大，乘客也形形色色——有本地居民、外国游客，也有从格鲁吉亚返程的旅人。前往第比利斯的道路与通往迪利然和阿拉韦尔迪的路线相同，沿途那层层叠叠的岩石山峦，再一次深深吸引了我。

约四小时后，我们抵达了亚美尼亚与格鲁吉亚的边境。通关过程快捷顺畅，这是因为这两国关系友好，而我所持的护照也享有格鲁吉亚的免签待遇。值得一提的是，这两国边检所使用的X光机等设备大多来自中国，颇有意思。

一进入格鲁吉亚，便立刻感受到天气明显暖和起来，四周的景色也愈发青翠葱郁。继续行驶约一小时，巴士在第比利斯郊区的一家购物中心停靠。我们在此下车，并使用当地流行的打车软件Yandex（类似Uber）叫车，前往位于自由广场附近、紧邻老城区的酒店。从这里开始， 我们开始探访比利斯这座名城。

Stepping out of the hotel, we were greeted by the magnificent Freedom Square. At its center rises the tall Freedom Monument—a granite column crowned with a golden statue of St. George, the patron saint of Georgia, symbolizing the nation’s independence and resilience. The square is surrounded by bookstores, museums, elegant restaurants, and notable buildings, including Tbilisi City Hall. In many ways, the square is even more stunning at night, when its lights create an atmosphere of grandeur and charm

走出酒店，宏伟的自由广场便映入眼帘。广场中央矗立着高耸的自由纪念碑——一根花岗岩石柱，顶部立着镀金的圣乔治雕像。圣乔治是格鲁吉亚的守护圣人，这座雕像象征着国家的独立与坚韧。广场四周分布着书店、博物馆、高档餐厅及其他著名建筑，包括第比利斯市政厅。某种程度上，广场的夜景更显壮丽，灯光之下更添一分辉煌与魅力

From Freedom square, a short 15-minute walk brought us to Tbilisi’s Old Town, the city’s most historic and picturesque district. Known for its maze of narrow lanes, colorful wooden balconies, and a unique blend of Georgian, Persian, and European architecture, this area exudes charm at every corner. Nestled below the Narikala Fortress, the Old Town is home to landmarks such as the Sulfur Baths (Abanotubani), Sioni Cathedral, Metekhi Church, and the lively Meidan Square. The neighborhood is also dotted with cozy cafés, wine bars, artisan shops, and traditional restaurants.

从自由广场出发，步行十五分钟，我们便来到了第比利斯老城——这座城市最古老、最富魅力的街区。这里以蜿蜒的狭窄街巷、色彩斑斓的木制阳台，以及格鲁吉亚、波斯和欧洲多种建筑风格的交融而闻名，转角皆是风景。坐落在纳里卡拉要塞之下的老城，拥有硫磺浴（Abanotubani）、西奥尼大教堂、梅特希教堂和热闹的梅丹广场等地标建筑。街区中遍布温馨的咖啡馆、葡萄酒吧、手工艺品店和传统餐馆。

At the southern side of Tbilisi’s Old Town stands the Bridge of Peace, connecting the historic district with Rike Park. Designed by an Italian architect, its wave-like glass and steel structure is light and airy, earning it the nickname “the glass bridge.” Every evening, its LED lights display dynamic patterns symbolizing life and peace. More than just a pedestrian crossing, the bridge is a work of contemporary art and a favorite spot for both locals and visitors. From here, you can enjoy stunning views of the Kura River, the Old Town, and Narikala Fortress, especially at sunset and night.

第比利斯老城南边的和平桥，是连接老城与瑞克公园的现代地标。桥由意大利建筑师设计，波浪形玻璃与钢结构轻盈通透，因此又被称为“玻璃桥”。每晚亮起的LED灯光呈现象征生命与和平的动态图案。和平桥不仅是行人通道，更是一件现代艺术作品，也是游客和当地人欣赏库拉河、老城与纳里卡拉要塞美景的绝佳地点，尤其在日落和夜晚，桥上的景色令人难以忘怀。

Just across the Kura River from the Old Town by the Bridge of Peace, lies Rike Park. This modern urban oasis features winding paths, sparkling fountains, playful playgrounds, and striking contemporary architecture. At its heart stands the Rike Park Concert Hall, a hub for music and cultural events.

从老城穿过自由桥，跨越库拉河，就来到了瑞克公园。这片现代都市绿洲拥有蜿蜒的小径、闪烁的喷泉、趣味十足的游乐场，以及醒目的现代建筑。公园中央立着瑞克公园音乐厅，是当地音乐和文化活动的中心之一。

We took the aerial tramway from Rike Park straight to the hilltop near Narikala Fortress and the iconic Mother of Georgia (Kartlis Deda) statue, overlooking the Old Town of Tbilisi, Metekhi Bridge, the Kura River, and the Holy Trinity Cathedral—the magnificent city views unfolded before our eyes. Unfortunately, we were unable to enter the National Botanical Garden on the western side of the hilltop due to ongoing renovations.

我们搭乘座落在瑞克公园里的空中缆车直达靠近纳里卡拉要塞及标志性”格鲁吉亚母亲”雕像的山顶，俯瞰第比利斯老城、梅特基大桥、库拉河与圣三一大教堂，壮丽市景尽收眼底。山顶西侧的国家植物园因正在修缮，遗憾未能入内。

The next morning, we visited the Holy Trinity Cathedral. Known as Sameba, the cathedral rises proudly on Elia Hill in Avlabari, overlooking the Kura River and the Old Town. Built between 1995 and 2004 during Georgia’s post-independence revival, it blends traditional Georgian church architecture with modern design. Its 87-meter height and gleaming golden dome dominate the city skyline. Inside, the frescoes and chapels create a serene and majestic atmosphere. I was fortunate to witness a mass and receive the priest’s blessing—an unforgettable moment in such a solemn setting. Culturally and architecturally, Sameba is truly one of a kind.

次日上午，我们参观了圣三一大教堂。这座被称为”萨梅巴”的宏伟建筑巍然屹立在阿夫拉巴里的埃利亚山岗，俯瞰着库拉河与老城景致。它建于1995年至2004年间，正值格鲁吉亚独立后的复兴时期，完美融合了传统格鲁吉亚教堂风格与现代设计理念。87米的高度与熠熠生辉的金色穹顶构成了城市天际线的标志性景观。教堂内部，壁画与礼拜堂营造出庄重而宁静的氛围。我我很幸运赶上一场弥撒，并接受了神父的祝福——在这般庄严场景中的难忘时刻。无论从文化底蕴还是建筑艺术角度而言，萨梅巴大教堂都是独一无二的存在。

After a coffee break at a nearby restaurant following our visit to the Holy Trinity Cathedral, we took a taxi to the Tbilisi AutoMuseum. Located in the eastern part of the city, the museum is a private collection established on October 25, 2014. It houses a carefully curated selection of Soviet-era and classic cars, featuring well-preserved models such as Volgas, ZIMs, Moskviches, and vintage military jeeps, along with rare vehicles once used by high-ranking officials. Each car has been meticulously restored, offering visitors a nostalgic glimpse into transportation life and the Soviet automobile industry of the 20th century. It is one of Tbilisi’s most distinctive niche museums.

在参观完圣三一大教堂后，我们在附近一家餐厅喝了咖啡，然后乘出租车前往第比利斯汽车博物馆。博物馆位于城市东部，是一个成立于2014年10月25日的私人收藏。馆内精心收藏了苏联时代及经典汽车，包括保存完好的沃尔加（Volga）、ZIM、莫斯科维奇（Moskvich）以及复古军用吉普车，还有一些曾供高级官员使用的稀有车型。每辆车都经过精心修复，为参观者提供了对20世纪交通生活和苏联汽车工业的怀旧体验。这是第比利斯最独特的小众博物馆之一。

When I sat in a café or strolled along the streets watching people pass by—food delivery riders speeding past on their bikes, students walking alone or with their parents after school, and ordinary men and women rushing about their day—I saw a vibrant society full of energy, resilience, and hard-working spirit.

当我坐在咖啡馆里，或漫步在街头看着人来人往——外卖骑手飞快穿梭，学生独自或与父母一起放学回家，普通男女匆匆忙忙奔赴各自的生活——我看到的是一个充满活力、坚韧不拔、勤劳奋进的社会。

A truck slowly hit a taxi that was stopped at a red light. The drivers had a brief argument but then calmed down and decided to call the police. The passenger left for her own purposes, but everyone else, including me, waited for the police to arrive. After waiting for 30 minutes with no sign of them, I also left, wishing everyone the best of luck.

一辆卡车缓缓追尾了一辆正在等红灯的出租车。经过短暂争执后，两位司机平静下来打电话报警。出租车上的乘客自行离开了，而我们其余人则留在现场等待。在苦等30分钟仍不见警察踪影后，我也决定离开，并祝愿他们好运。

A two-day trip was far too short to truly experience Tbilisi, yet even my first glimpse of the city was enough to make me want to return. On the way back to Yerevan, I continued to enjoy the scenery—Metekhi Bridge, the Kura River in the distance, and the beautiful Georgian countryside.

This marks the end of my journey through Armenia and Georgia. Later that night (technically very early the next morning), I would board a flight back to the place where I work and live. But I know I will return someday, if only to satisfy the longing this trip has left in me.

两天的行程远不足以真正领略第比利斯，但仅仅是对这座城市的第一眼，就已经足够让我想再回来。返回埃里温的途中，我仍继续欣赏沿途风景——远处的梅特希桥、库拉河，以及美丽的格鲁吉亚乡野。

这也标志着我在亚美尼亚和格鲁吉亚旅程的结束。那天深夜（严格来说，是第二天清晨），我将登上返回工作与生活之地的航班。但我知道，总有一天我会再次回来，去满足这次旅行留在心中的那份惦念。