Turkey, A Land of Historical Heritage and The Meeting Point of East and West (January 2025) 土耳其，历史传承、东西方交汇之地(2025年1月）

It was around 7 o’clock in the morning when we arrived at Istanbul’s international airport. The airport was sleek and modern, bustling with travelers yet remarkably well-organized. Our tour guide met us at Exit 14, and we then drove to our hotel, nestled in the heart of Istanbul’s old town.Following a brief but refreshing brunch, we embarked on our first walking tour of the historic city, a journey that continued over the following day.

Istanbul, a dynamic metropolis straddling both Europe and Asia, boasts a rich history as the former capital of the Byzantine and Ottoman Empires. For centuries, it stood at the heart of these great civilizations, leaving behind an awe-inspiring architectural legacy. We visited some of its most iconic landmarks, including the Hagia Sophia—a former cathedral and mosque—the opulent Topkapi Palace, and the majestic Blue Mosque, each a testament to the city’s storied past.

Another highlight of our visit was exploring the bustling Grand Bazaar and Spice Market, where a kaleidoscope of colors, scents, and sounds reflected Istanbul’s enduring role as a global trading hub. The narrow, winding streets of the Balat and Fener districts whispered stories of diverse communities that have coexisted for centuries.

Beyond its historical core, modern Istanbul thrives with a vibrant arts, culinary, and cultural scene. The Bosphorus Strait, a vital waterway, bisects the city, offering breathtaking views and a sense of Istanbul’s unique geography. A mesmerizing blend of ancient traditions and contemporary energy, Istanbul remains a true crossroads of East and West—a city that never ceases to captivate.

清晨七点左右，我们抵达伊斯坦布尔国际机场。机场现代而时尚，旅客熙熙攘攘，却井然有序。我们的导游在14号出口迎接我们，随后我们驱车前往位于伊斯坦布尔老城中心的酒店。简单而提神的早午餐后，我们开始步行游览这座历史名城，连续二天我们尽情享受这座城市的文化魅力。

伊斯坦布尔，这座横跨欧亚两洲的都市，曾是拜占庭帝国和奥斯曼帝国的首都。几个世纪以来，它一直是伟大文明的中心，留下了令人叹为观止的建筑遗产。我们参观了其中最具代表性的地标，如曾是大教堂和清真寺的圣索菲亚大教堂、富丽堂皇的托普卡帕宫，以及宏伟壮观的蓝色清真寺，它们共同诉说着这座城市辉煌的过去。

另一大亮点是游览繁华的“大巴扎”和香料市场，这里五彩斑斓，香气四溢，热闹非凡，展现了伊斯坦布尔作为全球贸易枢纽的悠久历史。巴拉特和费内尔区狭窄蜿蜒的街道则诉说着多个民族和文化共存的故事。

除了深厚的历史底蕴，现代伊斯坦布尔也是艺术、美食和文化的中心。博斯普鲁斯海峡穿城而过，提供了壮丽的景色，也彰显了这座城市独特的地理位置。古老与现代交融，伊斯坦布尔始终是东西方交汇之地，一座令人着迷的城市，魅力无与伦比。

Schematic map for the major attractions (Click the map for full image)主要景点的示意图 (请点击地图查看全图)。

The Bosporus or Bosphorus Strait is a natural strait in Istanbul. It connects the Black Sea to the Sea of Marmara and forms one of the continental boundaries between Asia and Europe. It also divides Turkey by separating Asia Minor from Thrace. Taking a cruise along the waterway offers breathtaking views.

博斯普鲁斯海峡是土耳其伊斯坦布尔的一条天然海峡。它连接黑海与马尔马拉海，构成亚洲与欧洲之间的大陆分界线之一。此外，它将土耳其分为安纳托利亚（小亚细亚）和色雷斯两部分。

乘游船沿着水道巡游，两岸景色尽收眼底。

The Topkapı Palace, or the Seraglio, is a large museum and library in the east of the Fatih district of Istanbul in Turkey. From the 1460s to the completion of Dolmabahçe Palace in 1856, it served as the administrative center of the Ottoman Empire, and was the main residence of its sultans.

Inside the palace, we not only admire the magnificent architecture, invaluable jewlies and artifacts and luxurious lifestyle of the past but also enjoy a stunning view of the river that divides Istanbul between Europe and Asia and the city landscapes along it.

托普卡帕宫，又称托普卡帕后宫，是土耳其伊斯坦布尔法提赫区东部的一座大型博物馆和图书馆。从 15 世纪 60 年代到 1856 年多尔玛巴切宫竣工，托普卡帕宫一直是奥斯曼帝国的行政中心，也是苏丹的主要住所。

在宫里，我们不仅欣赏到宏伟壮丽的建筑, 展览的无价之宝和昔日奢华的生活方式，还能眺望将伊斯坦布尔分隔为欧洲和亚洲的河流及沿岸城市景观。

The Yeni Mosque, or New Mosque, is near the Galata Bridge and the Spice Bazaar, Commissioned by Sultan Murad III’s mother in 1597, its construction was completed in 1665 under Sultan Mehmed IV. The mosque features stunning Ottoman architecture, with an elegant central dome, semi-domes, and two towering minarets.

耶尼清真寺，又称新清真寺，位于加拉塔大桥和香料市场附近，由苏丹穆拉德三世的母亲于 1597 年下令修建，于 1665 年苏丹穆罕默德四世统治期间完工。这座清真寺拥有令人惊叹的奥斯曼建筑风格，拥有优雅的中央圆顶、半圆顶和两座高耸的尖塔。

The Spice Bazaar, or Egyptian Bazaar, is one of Istanbul’s most famous markets, dating back to the 17th century as a spice trade hub. Today, it remains a sensory delight, offering spices, dried fruits, nuts, Turkish delight, teas, and sweets. Rich aromas fill the air, and colorful displays create a captivating atmosphere. Visitors can also find souvenirs, herbal remedies, and Turkish delicacies, making it a must-visit spot in Istanbul.

香料集市(埃及集市）是伊斯坦布尔最著名的市集之一，始建于 17 世纪，曾是香料贸易中心。如今，这里依然是感官盛宴，售卖香料、干果、坚果、土耳其软糖、茶叶和甜点。空气中弥漫着浓郁的香气，色彩斑斓的摊位营造出迷人氛围。游客还可以找到纪念品、草药和土耳其美食，使其成为伊斯坦布尔必访之地。

Sultanahmet Square, the heart of Istanbul’s historic peninsula, was once the Hippodrome of Constantinople. Today, this public space is surrounded by iconic landmarks like the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia, and Topkapi Palace. Ancient monuments like the Obelisk of Theodosius and the Serpent Column stand as testaments to its rich past.The square buzzes with locals and tourists, offering a place to stroll, admire the architecture, and soak in the city’s captivating history and atmosphere.

苏丹艾哈迈德广场位于伊斯坦布尔的半岛中心，曾是君士坦丁堡的竞技场。如今，这片公共空间周围环绕着蓝色清真寺、圣索菲亚大教堂和托普卡帕宫等标志性建筑。狄奥多西方尖碑和蛇柱等古代纪念碑见证了这里丰富的历史。广场上挤满了当地人和游客，是散步、欣赏建筑、感受这座城市迷人历史和氛围的好去处。

The Blue Mosque, or Sultan Ahmed Mosque, is a famous landmark in Istanbul, named for the over 20,000 handmade blue tiles (Iznik tiles) adorning its interior. Built in the 17th century, it has six minarets, grand domes, and stunning Islamic calligraphy. Sunlight streams through many windows, enhancing its beauty. As a working mosque, it welcomes visitors outside prayer times.

Inside the Blue Mosque, I had the pleasure of meeting two tourists from Iraq. One of them, Yousif, spoke English quite well, and we enjoyed a brief but pleasant conversation. I also took a photo for them and sent it to them via WhatsApp.

蓝色清真寺，又名苏丹艾哈迈德清真寺，是伊斯坦布尔著名的地标建筑，因内部装饰有超过 20,000 块手工制作的蓝色瓷砖（伊兹尼克瓷砖）而得名。该清真寺建于 17 世纪，拥有六座尖塔、宏伟的圆顶和令人惊叹的伊斯兰书法。阳光透过许多窗户射进来，使其更加美丽。作为一座仍在使用的清真寺，它在祈祷时间以外也欢迎游客。

在蓝色清真寺内，我很高兴遇到了两位来自伊拉克的游客。其中一位名叫优素福（Yousif），他的英语说得很不错，我们进行了一段简短而愉快的交谈。我还为他们拍了一张照片，用WhatsApp 发给了他们。

Hagia Sophia, located in Istanbul, is a masterpiece of Byzantine architecture and a symbol of cultural transformation. Built in 537 AD by Emperor Justinian, it was the world’s largest cathedral for nearly a thousand years before becoming an Ottoman mosque in 1453. Its massive dome, stunning mosaics, and grand interior reflect both Christian and Islamic influences. Converted into a museum in 1935 and later restored as a mosque in 2020, it remains a breathtaking site of historical and spiritual significance. Visitors admire its architectural grandeur, intricate calligraphy, and rich history, making it one of Istanbul’s most iconic landmarks.

圣索菲亚大教堂位于伊斯坦布尔，是拜占庭建筑的杰作，也是文化变迁的象征。由皇帝查士丁尼于公元 537 年建造，它曾是世界上最大的教堂近千年，并在 1453 年被奥斯曼帝国改为清真寺。其巨大的圆顶、精美的马赛克和宏伟的内部融合了基督教和伊斯兰教元素。1935 年，它被改为博物馆，并于 2020 年恢复为清真寺。如今，它依然是历史与信仰的重要象征，游客可以欣赏其壮丽的建筑、精美的书法和深厚的历史，使其成为伊斯坦布尔最具代表性的地标之一。

The Basilica Cistern, located in Istanbul, is an ancient underground water reservoir built in the 6th century during the reign of Byzantine Emperor Justinian I. Spanning nearly 9,800 square meters, it once supplied water to the Great Palace of Constantinople. The cistern is supported by 336 marble columns, creating a mysterious and eerie atmosphere. Among its highlights are the two Medusa head columns, adding to its mystique. Soft lighting and the reflection of columns in the water enhance its enchanting ambiance. Today, it stands as a fascinating historical site, offering visitors a glimpse into Istanbul’s rich past and engineering marvels.

伊斯坦布尔地下水宫是一个古老的地下蓄水池，建于 6 世纪拜占庭皇帝查士丁尼一世统治时期，占地近 9,800 平方米，曾为君士坦丁堡大皇宫供水。水宫由 336 根大理石柱支撑，营造出神秘而幽深的氛围。其中，两根带有美杜莎头像的柱子尤为引人注目，增添了神秘感。柔和的灯光和水中倒映的列柱使其更加扑朔迷离。如今，它作为一处迷人的历史遗迹，让游客一窥伊斯坦布尔的辉煌历史和过去卓越的工程技艺。

Our next stop was the Pamukkale (also known as the “Cotton Castle”) travertine terraces and the adjacent ancient city of Hierapolis, located in Denizli Province, southwestern Turkey. Early in the morning, we took a nearly three-hour flight from Istanbul to Denizli Çardak Airport. It had just rained when we arrived, and as we stepped out of the airport, a wave of humid air mixed with a faint smell of sulfur hit us—a sign that the Pamukkale travertine terraces were nearby.

A local guide met us and took us to the park. As we entered and passed through ancient stone formations, the white travertine terraces appeared before our eyes—like a sloping hillside blanketed in cotton. It’s no wonder the site is nicknamed the “Cotton Castle.” These terraces are a type of sedimentary rock formed by the deposition of calcium carbonate (CaCO₃) from the region’s thermal spring water. The dazzling white terraces naturally cascade down the steep slope, overlooking the Çürüksu Plain. Scattered among them are thermal pools of various sizes, where visitors can soak their feet. After indulging in a relaxing foot soak, we wandered among the remnants of ancient artifacts and continued our journey through the rich history of Hierapolis.

The connection between Hierapolis and the Pamukkale travertine terraces is deeply rooted. In the late 2nd century BCE, the Attalid dynasty of the Kingdom of Pergamon strategically founded Hierapolis atop the hot springs and terraces. The thermal waters were believed to have healing properties, which led to the development of Hierapolis as both a spa town and a religious center. Today, the dazzling white terraces of Pamukkale form a striking contrast with the ruins of Hierapolis, creating a breathtaking scene. Together, they have been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site under the name “Hierapolis–Pamukkale.”

After visiting the ruins, we went to a nearby town and enjoyed a delicious, authentic Turkish meal at a local restaurant. Then we took a long drive to Kuşadası for an overnight stay.

我们的下一站是位于土耳其西南部代尼兹利省的帕穆克卡莱 (又称棉花堡)石灰华梯田及其毗邻的古城希拉波利斯。一大早我们从伊斯坦布尔飞行差不多三个小时到达代尼兹利恰尔达克机场。当地刚下完雨， 一出机场， 空中一股潮湿的空气中夹杂着淡淡的硫磺气味扑面而来，表明帕穆克卡莱石灰华梯田离这里不远。

当地的导游接我们到公园。 进到公园后穿过古老的石头阵，白色的石灰华梯田就在眼前， 宛如铺满棉花的斜坡， 难怪有人称之为棉花堡。石灰华梯田是由该地区温泉水中碳酸钙（CaCO₃）沉积形成的一种沉积岩。这些天然形成的白色梯田沿着陡坡层层叠叠，俯瞰着曲吕克苏平原。其中，有大小不等的的温泉池， 可以泡泡脚。过完泡脚的瘾后，漫步于残存的古代文物遗迹之中，再来体验古城希拉波利斯丰富的历史。

希拉波利斯与帕穆克卡莱石灰华梯田之间的联系非常紧密。公元前2世纪末，阿塔罗斯王朝的帕加马王国具有战略性地将希拉波利斯建立在温泉和梯田之上。人们相信温泉具有疗愈功效，这使得希拉波利斯既是一个温泉小镇，也是一个宗教中心。如今，帕穆克卡莱耀眼的白色梯田与希拉波利斯的废墟相互陪衬， 交相生辉。它们共同被联合国教科文组织认定为世界遗产，名称为“希拉波利斯-帕穆克卡莱”。

参观完遗址后，我们到附近的一个小镇，在一家当地餐馆享用了一顿美味正宗的土耳其餐。午餐后，我们驱车前往库萨达斯，准备在那儿过夜。

The city where we stayed overnight, Kuşadası, is a beach resort on the Aegean coast in western Turkey. It serves as a gateway to the nearby ancient ruins of Ephesus and is also a major port of call for cruise ships. Our hotel faced the waterfront, and starting from its entrance, we could walk along a seaside promenade that led to the marina. The path was lined with countless hotels and restaurants in various styles. Just offshore, we could see Pigeon Island. Connected to the mainland by a causeway, the island features a walled Byzantine castle that once protected the town in ancient times.

我们过夜的库萨达斯是土耳其西部爱琴海沿岸的一个海滩度假小镇。它是前往附近以弗所（或艾菲斯）古典遗址的必经之地，也是主要的邮轮停靠的港口。

我们下榻的酒店位面向海滨，沿着门口的海滨长廊可以走到码头，沿途林立着无数各种风格的酒店和餐馆，还可以看见近海的鸽子岛。鸽子岛堤道与大陆相连，上有一座带围墙的拜占庭城堡，在古代它曾守护着这座城镇。

Driving from Kuşadası, we would have a full day Ephesus tour.

Ephesus is an ancient city that dates back to around the 10th century BCE and truly flourished under Roman rule. It was a major center of trade and culture near the Aegean Sea. Ephesus also holds great significance in early Christianity—Paul preached there, and it’s believed that the Virgin Mary spent her final years nearby. We visited a Catholic shrine on Mount Bülbül: a simple stone house thought to have been her home during those last years. This site later became known as the “House of the Virgin Mary.”

我们从库萨达斯出发，准备在以弗所古城游览一天。

以弗所是一座古老的城市，可追溯到公元前10世纪左右，并在罗马统治时期达到鼎盛。它曾是爱琴海附近的重要贸易和文化中心。以弗所在早期基督教中也具有重要意义——保罗曾在这里传教，人们普遍认为圣母玛利亚曾在附近度过了她生命的最后岁月。我们参观了布尔布尔山上的一处天主教朝圣地：一座朴素的石屋，据说这是圣母晚年居住的地方。这个地方后来被称为“圣母玛利亚之家”。

The ancient city center of Ephesus was the lively heart of one of the greatest cities. It was packed with stunning buildings, busy marketplaces, and impressive monuments. One of the highlights was the Library of Celsus—a beautifully designed building that once held thousands of scrolls. Just around the corner was the Agora, the bustling market where traders sold goods from all over the Roman Empire.

A wide stone path called the Marble Road connected the library to the Great Theatre that could hold 25,000 people and hosted everything from plays to public speeches. With its grand streets, columns, and mosaics, the city center gives a real sense of how impressive and well-organized ancient Ephesus once was.

Ephesus started to fade when its harbor filled with silt, cutting it off from the sea. We can still see some ruins there, like the Library of Celsus, the massive Great Theatre，Temple of Hadrian, Roman baths, fountains, other public buildings，and beautiful marble streets.

以弗所古城的市中心曾是这座伟大城市最充满活力的地方，遍布着令人惊叹的建筑、热闹的市集和宏伟的纪念碑。其中最著名的建筑之一是塞尔苏斯图书馆——这座设计精美的建筑曾收藏成千上万卷书卷。图书馆附近就是繁忙市集广场（Agora），来自整个罗马帝国的商人在这里交易各类商品。

一条宽阔的石板路，被称为大理石路，将图书馆与大剧场连接起来。这个剧场可以容纳多达2.5万人，曾经上演戏剧、举办演讲等各种公共活动。漫步在这些宏伟的街道、柱廊和马赛克装饰中，仿佛可以感受到古代以弗所曾经的辉煌和有序。

后来，由于港口被淤泥堵塞，以弗所逐渐衰落，失去了与大海的联系。但我们今天依然可以看到许多遗迹，比如塞尔苏斯图书馆、宏大的大剧场，哈德良神庙、罗马浴场、喷泉和其他公共建筑，以及美丽的大理石街道。

Ancient City of Ephesus Map (Copyright credited to the original author)

The Temple of Artemis at Ephesus, also known as the Artemision, was a significant ancient Greek temple dedicated to the goddess Artemis, and one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World.  It was a center of worship and pilgrimage. The temple was destroyed by invading Goths in 262 ce and was never rebuilt. Little remains of the temple (though there are many fragments, especially of sculptured columns, in the British Museum).

以弗所的阿耳忒弥斯神庙，也被称为阿耳忒弥西翁（Artemision），是献给希腊女神阿耳忒弥斯的一座重要古希腊神庙，同时也是古代世界七大奇迹之一。这座神庙曾是宗教崇拜和朝圣的重要中心。公元262年，神庙被入侵的哥特人摧毁，之后再也没有重建。如今神庙所剩无几，不过有许多残片，特别是雕刻精美的柱子碎片，现藏于大英博物馆。

After our tour of Ephesus, we flew from Izmir to Cappadocia for its stunning natural landscapes and the chance to experience a magical hot air balloon ride. We were told that balloon flights depend heavily on weather conditions—especially rain and wind—and that we wouldn’t know if it was happening until early the same morning. Fortunately, we beat the odds and became the first group to take off in over a week.

The balloon ride began just before sunrise over Rose Valley. Nearby Red Valley is considered one of Cappadocia’s most breathtaking natural wonders, with its surreal rock formations, pinkish-red hues, and ancient cave churches. Rose Valley gets its name from the spectacular colors that wash over the landscape at sunrise and sunset.

From about 3,000 feet in the air, we were fascinated by the stunning views below—nature’s beauty captured by both our eyes and our cameras. Our only complaint? Maybe just a few too many balloons in the sky.

参观完以弗所之后，我们从伊兹密尔飞到了卡帕多奇亚，主要是为了看这里超美的自然风景，还有大家都说超梦幻的热气球体验。一开始我们被告知热气球能不能飞完全看天气，特别是有没有下雨或大风，而且要到当天一大早才知道能不能飞。运气超好的是，我们居然赶上了机会，成了过去一周第一个成功飞上天的团队！

我们的热气球是在日出前从玫瑰谷（Rose Valley）起飞的。玫瑰谷（Red Valley) 是卡帕多奇亚最美的自然景点之一，这里有超梦幻的岩石地貌、粉红色的山谷，还有藏在岩石里的古老洞穴教堂。玫瑰谷这个名字，就是因日出和日落时山谷被洒上一层超美的玫瑰色光芒而来。

热气球飞到大概3000英尺高的时候，底下的风景真是美不收，眼睛和相机都忙不过来。唯一的小问题是，天上热气球实在有点多了些。

The Göreme Open Air Museum in southern Cappadocia is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The valley has at least 60 churches, 45 communal dining rooms, hundreds of burial sites, and tons of rooms used for farming and storage—all carved straight into the soft volcanic stone. Some of the churches still have colorful frescoes on the walls that have lasted for centuries. Most of them were built during the Byzantine era, when this place was home to monks and a popular pilgrimage destination.

These days, the Göreme Open Air Museum is a top stop for anyone visiting Cappadocia. It’s a great mix of history, culture, and seriously cool cave architecture that you won’t see anywhere else.

卡帕多奇亚南部的格雷梅露天博物馆（Göreme Open Air Museum）是联合国教科文组织世界遗产。整个山谷里大约有60座教堂、45个公共食堂、数百个墓穴，还有很多当时用于农业储藏的洞室——全都开凿在柔软的火山岩中。有些教堂内部还保留着色彩鲜艳的壁画，历经几个世纪仍然清晰可见。这些建筑大多数建于拜占庭时期， 当时曾是僧侣生活的地方，也是朝圣者常来的圣地。

现在，格雷梅露天博物馆是来卡帕多奇亚旅行必打卡的地方，既能了解丰富的历史和宗教文化，又能欣赏到独一无二的岩石建筑风格，真的非常值得一看！