Xinjiang has always held a special place in my imagination—not only because of its immense scale, but also for its deep history, breathtaking landscapes, and the distinctive, captivating beauty of its people.

After finally setting aside a week of vacation, I set foot on this long-dreamed-of land. Once the journey began, I quickly realized my biggest miscalculation was time. Six days were far too short—not nearly enough to truly experience even a corner of this vast and magnificent region. Following our guide’s advice, we narrowed our focus to Southern Xinjiang. Even so, the trip still felt hurried, like a fleeting glimpse of something far greater.

What moved me most about Southern Xinjiang was its quiet sense of mystery and distance. Layers of history seem to linger in the air, while the sweeping desert landscapes make you feel as if you’ve stepped into another world, far removed from everyday life.

October, I discovered, is when the region feels almost magical. The legendary poplar forests blaze into brilliant gold, glowing against the stark desert backdrop in a way that feels almost unreal. At the same time, it is harvest season—orchards heavy with fruit and endless cotton fields spreading like a white sea, adding warmth, texture, and life to the journey.

By the time I left, I realized the true takeaway was not how many places I had seen, but the lasting feeling the trip left behind—a deep impression of Xinjiang’s vastness, richness, and timeless beauty.

新疆一直在我的想象中占据着特殊的位置——不仅因为它辽阔的疆域，更因为那厚重绵长的历史、震撼人心的风景，以及当地人独特的美丽。

终于腾出一周的假期，我踏上了这片向往已久的土地。出发后才发现，最大的“失算”就是时间——短短六天，别说深入了解，就连想要触摸这片壮丽大地的一角都显得仓促。听从向导的建议，我们把行程收缩仅限南疆。但即便如此，这趟旅程依然匆匆，令人意犹未尽。

南疆最打动我的，是它那种带着距离感的神秘与宁静。这里历史层层叠叠，古老文明的气息仿佛仍在空气中流动；而广袤的沙漠景观，又让人恍若走进另一个世界，远离日常的喧嚣。十月的南疆更像被施了魔法——胡杨林在此时迎来一年中最辉煌的时刻，金色的树叶在苍茫大漠中燃烧般闪耀，美得近乎不真实。与此同时，这也是丰收的季节：果园里果实压枝，棉田铺展如白色海洋，让整个旅程多了一层丰盈而温暖的色彩。

回程时我才真正意识到，这六天带走的并不是“看过多少景点”，而是一种深刻的感受——新疆的辽阔、厚重与美，远远超出想象，也足以在记忆里停留很久很久。

Kashgar, The Place of cultural and Historic Jade 喀什，文化和历史的玉石

Old Town 喀什老城

Because our schedule was tight, we flew directly from Shanghai to Kashgar, our first stop. Since much of our route would run along the border, we had obtained special permission from border authorities in advance. We arrived too late to travel farther, so we stayed overnight—giving us the perfect chance to explore the city’s famed Kashgar Old Town.

In the Uyghur language, Kashgar translates to ‘Stone Mountain,’ though many prefer the more poetic interpretation: ‘The Place of Jade. Located on the western edge of the Tarim Basin, Kashgar has long been a strategic crossroads linking China’s interior with Central Asia, with a history of more than two thousand years. The Old Town still preserves traditional Uyghur homes and a maze-like network of alleys. From evening until late at night, we wandered freely through more than 200 narrow lanes paved with hexagonal or rectangular bricks. The air carried the toasty aroma of freshly baked naan, elderly men relaxed over tea in old teahouses, and the food streets buzzed with music, dancing, and the rich scent of grilled lamb and beef. The distinctive architecture, lively street life, and warm human atmosphere made every corner worth lingering—and photographing.

由于行程紧凑，我们从上海直飞 喀什 作为第一站。因为后续路线大多沿边境展开，我们提前办理了边境通行证。抵达时已较晚，无法继续前行，便决定在此过夜，也正好有机会细细探访著名的 喀什老城。

在维吾尔语中，喀什 的含义是“石头山”，不过也有人更喜欢一种更富诗意的解释——“玉石之地”。喀什位于塔里木盆地西缘，历来是连接中原与中亚的交通要冲，拥有两千多年历史。老城至今仍保留典型维吾尔传统民居与迷宫般的街巷格局。我们从傍晚逛到半夜，在两百多条铺满六角砖或长方砖的小巷中随意穿行。空气中飘着馕饼出炉的焦香，茶馆里老人悠然品茶；美食街上歌舞热闹，烤羊肉与牛肉香气四溢。特独的建筑风貌、浓郁市井气息与鲜活的人情味，让这里处处都值得驻足与打卡。

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Id Kah Mosque 艾提尕尔清真寺

Before retreating to our hotel, we caught a final glimpse of the Id Kah Mosque.

Standing as the largest mosque in Xinjiang, the Id Kah Mosque has been the city’s geographic and spiritual anchor since 1442. More than just a landmark, it is a silent observer of 2,000 years of Silk Road history. Diverging from the blue-domed aesthetic of Central Asia, Id Kah captivates with its luminous yellow-brick exterior and a serene, tree-lined courtyard, creating a visual harmony that is truly one-of-a-kind. In its prime, the mosque was the heartbeat of the region—a place where thousands would gather in the square for the spirited Samar dance during Eid festivals.

Though we arrived too late to enter, the closed gates didn’t diminish the experience. Standing in the quiet of the square, we could still feel its solemnity and magnificence—a serene sentinel of history watching over the modern pulse of Kashgar.

在返回酒店前，我们特意去瞻仰了喀什的金色地标——艾提尕尔清真寺。

这是新疆最大的清真寺，始建于始建于明代即1442年，位于城市的地理中心，目击了两千年来丝绸之路的演进。不同于中亚常见的蓝色圆顶，艾提尕尔有其标志性的亮黄色砖墙、洗练的宣礼塔，以及庭院内那葱郁的古杨与苍松，于世独一无二。

几个世纪以来，这里一直是重大的节日庆典中心。每逢开斋节，成千上万的人们汇聚在门前的广场上，伴随着民族乐器的节奏跳起欢快的萨玛舞。

虽然我们抵达时已错过开放时间，大门紧闭，但即便只是伫立在广场上远观，那份穿越时空的庄严与宏伟依然扑面而来。在这片宁静中，它像一位沉默的守护者，注视着老城不息的人烟。

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Gaotai Residential Area 高台民居

Just across the street from the Old Town lies the Gaotai Residential Area, a historic cluster of traditional Uyghur homes perched on an elevated loess terrace. Dating back several centuries, the houses—made mainly of earth and wood—are arranged in layered, maze-like lanes that follow the natural slope. Originally designed for protection and close-knit community living, they now stand as a living fossil to Uyghur architecture, showcasing local craftsmanship, cultural traditions, and everyday life shaped by the environment. Along the street, shops selling coffee, sweets, and handicrafts welcome visitors. We wandered into a café, and from its terrace, sipping a drink while watching the city at dusk was an unmatched, deeply relaxing experience.

从老城穿过马路便进入高台民居。这是一片历史建筑群，建筑时间最早可追溯至数百年前。这些以生土和木材为主的维吾尔族传统民居沿着高高的黄土台地错落分布，层层叠建，形成迷宫般蜿蜒的巷道。它们最初是为防御和紧密的邻里生活而设计，如今则成为维吾尔建筑文化的活化石，展现着当地工艺传统、民族风情以及与环境相生相融的日常智慧。

街边商铺里，咖啡香、糕点甜与手工艺品相映成趣。我们踱入一家咖啡馆，在露台上凭栏小酌，看暮色悄然漫过古城。那一刻的松弛感，无可比拟。

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Lake Baisha and Muztagh Ata 白沙湖和慕兹塔格峰

The next day, our long-anticipated journey through southern Xinjiang officially began. Our first stop: Lake Baisha (White Sand Lake) and Muztagh Ata, destinations we had dreamed of visiting for so long.

These two natural wonders are located on the border of Akto and Taxkorgan Tajik Autonomous County. Starting from Kashgar, the drive takes about three to four hours along the China-Pakistan Friendship Highway (G314). Do note that a Frontier Pass is required to enter this area. Luckily, we had obtained ours the day before, so the trip was smooth and hassle-free.

Lake Baisha, sitting at an altitude of around 3,300 meters, is famous for the shimmering reflection of its silver-white sand dunes in the crystal clear waters. Towering over the landscape at 7,546 meters, Muztagh Ata is known as the “Father of the Ice Mountains.” Its snow-capped peak stands in silent majesty, often glowing gold at sunrise and sunset—a truly spectacular sight.

Our guide wisely steered us away from the crowded main shore and found us a quieter spot. Standing by the lake, gazing at the expanse of deep blue water and looking up at the imposing peak of Muztagh Ata, we felt an overwhelming sense of peace. We then drove slowly along the lake, circling its perimeter to admire the myriad facets of Muztagh Ata from every angle—each perspective offering its own unique and breathtaking grandeur.

次日，我们的南疆之旅正式拉开帷幕。第一站，便奔向向往已久的白沙湖与慕士塔格峰。

这两处景观位于新疆阿克陶县与塔什库尔干塔吉克自治县交界地带，从喀什出发沿中巴友谊公路（G314国道）行驶约3至4小时即可抵达。前往该区域须提前办理边防通行证（申报目的地注明“塔什库尔干县”或“新疆全境”），好在昨天我们已办妥，一路畅通无阻。

白沙湖海拔约3300米，以湖畔银白色沙山倒映湖中而闻名，湖水纯净，沙山如雪，景色如梦似幻；而海拔7546米的慕士塔格峰素有“冰山之父”美誉，峰顶终年积雪，巍然屹立，常伴日照金山的壮丽奇观。

导游特意带我们避开游人如织的湖边，寻得一处相对安静之地。立于湖畔，凝望一泓湛蓝的湖水，远眺巍峨耸立的慕士塔格峰，天地澄明，心神俱静。

随后，我们沿湖开车缓缓而行，环湖一周，从不同角度领略慕士塔格峰的万千风姿, 感受不一样的震撼。

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Tour in Tashkurgan Tajik Autonomous County: Panlong Ancient Road, Bandir Blue Lak, Tashkurgan Fort, Stone City and Jincaotan, 塔什库尔干塔吉克自治县j景区：盘龙古道、班迪尔蓝湖、石头城和金草滩

Panlong Ancient Road and Vicinity 盘龙古道及周边

After an overnight stay in Tashkurgan Tajik Autonomous County, our next destination was the Panlong Ancient Road, often hailed as China’s most beautiful highway. I had seen its surreal curves in photos, paintings, and travel posters, so I was especially excited to witness it with my own eyes.

Driving this winding road felt almost dreamlike. It ascends from the valley floor to snow-capped peaks, carving through the rugged Pamir Plateau near Tashkurgan. From top to bottom, the route features over 600 sharp S-shaped bends, coiling across the mountains like a giant dragon—hence its name, Panlong, meaning “Coiled Dragon.” From the main viewpoint, the road snakes through barren peaks, deep valleys, and vast open skies, offering breathtaking panoramic views at nearly every turn.

The highway is divided into two sections: Greater Panlong and Lesser Panlong. We missed most of the Lesser Panlong, catching only its final stretch.

“Once you’ve traveled the Panlong Ancient Road, the rest of life will be smooth and open,” reads a billboard at the entrance. After this unforgettable drive, I finally understood the meaning behind those words.

在塔什库尔干塔吉克自治县住了一晚后，我们的下一站是被誉为中国最美公路的盘龙古道。我曾无数次在照片、画作和旅游海报中见过它那超现实的蜿蜒曲线，因此对亲眼目睹格外期待。

驶上这条蜿蜒的道路，恍如置身梦境。它从谷底攀升至雪峰之巅，在塔县附近苍莽的帕米尔高原上劈山而过。全线上下共有超过600个惊险的S形弯道，如一条巨龙盘踞山间——故而得名”盘龙古道”。从主要观景台望去，公路在荒芜的山峰、深邃的峡谷和辽阔的天空中盘旋穿行，几乎每一个弯道都能邂逅摄人心魄的壮丽全景。这条公路分为两段：大盘龙和小盘龙。我们错过了小盘龙的大部分路段，只赶上了它的末尾。

“今日走过了所有的弯路，从此人生尽是坦途。”入口处的这块标语牌上写道。经历这次难忘的旅程后，我终于读懂了这句话的深意。

A Tajik front desk attendant at the hotel where we stayed 我们下榻的某酒店塔吉克族前台服务员

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Bandir Blue Lake 班迪尔蓝湖

Next, we headed to Bandir Blue Lake, also located in Tashkurgan County. Originally a section of the Tashkurgan River, it became an artificial reservoir after the construction of the Xiabandi Hydro Project, and is also known as Xiabandi Reservoir or Kanyang Long Pool. The lake’s water comes from glacial melt, rich in minerals, and displays various deep and shifting shades of blue due to the refraction of sunlight—turquoise in summer and deep blue in winter. It is hailed as the “Sapphire” of the Pamir Plateau. We strolled along the shore of Bandir Blue Lake, stopping now and then. The lake’s surface is as smooth as a mirror, reflecting the surrounding mountains and the clear blue sky. Encircled by majestic snow-capped peaks, it offers a breathtaking scene, especially after traveling the Panlong Ancient Road.

Although the altitude here is quite high, close to 4,000 meters, we experienced no symptoms of altitude sickness at all—probably thanks to the ample oxygen supply.

接下来我们前往同在塔什库尔干县的班迪尔蓝湖。它原为塔什库尔干河的一段，后因修建下坂地水利枢纽而形成人工水库，也被称为下坂地水库或坎儿洋龙池。湖水源自冰川融水，富含矿物质，因阳光折射而呈现出各种深邃多变的蓝色，夏季青蓝，冬季深蓝，被誉为帕米尔高原的”蓝宝石”。沿着班迪尔蓝湖边走走停停，湖面平滑如镜，倒映着周边的群山和湛蓝的天空，湖泊周围壮丽的雪山环绕，是经盘龙古道后的绝美风景。

尽管这里海拔较高，接近4000米，但我们丝毫没有高山反应，应是氧气充足的缘故吧。

Lakeside vegetation – succulents 湖边的植被-多肉

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Tashkurgan Fort (Stone City) 塔什库尔干堡

After our visit to Bandir Blue Lake, we made a quick stop at Tashkurgan Fort, also known as the Stone City. The name comes from the Turkic word “Tashkurgan,” meaning “stone fortress.” Perched on a hill overlooking vast grasslands and mountain valleys, this ancient fortress served as a strategic stronghold for over two thousand years. Historically, it occupied a key position along the ancient Silk Road, controlling vital routes connecting China with Central and South Asia.

In the 7th century, the site also housed a significant Buddhist center and monastery. The famous monk Xuanzang is said to have visited around 649 AD, and remnants of the platform where he may have taught can still be seen. Later travelers, including Marco Polo and explorer Sir Aurel Stein, also passed through this historic site.

Today, the fortress has become a tourist destination. Along the railed walkways, visitors can see weathered stone walls, foundations, and watchtowers that have survived the centuries. Surrounded by sweeping highland scenery—snow-capped peaks, open meadows, and grazing yaks—the site offers both cultural insight and breathtaking views.

告别班迪尔蓝湖后，我们顺道前往塔什库尔干要塞，也就是著名的石头城。其名源自突厥语”塔什库尔干”，意为”石头堡垒”。这座古城堡雄踞山丘之上，俯瞰着辽阔的草原与山谷，两千余年来一直是战略要地。历史上，它扼守着古丝绸之路的要冲，掌控着连接中国与中亚、南亚的交通命脉。

公元7世纪，这里曾是重要的佛教中心和寺院所在地。相传玄奘法师于公元649年左右到访此地，至今仍可见其可能用以讲经的讲经台遗迹。此后，马可·波罗及探险家马尔克·奥莱尔·斯坦因等均曾途经这座历史遗址。

如今，石头城已成为一处旅游胜地。沿着设有护栏的步道前行，可见历经沧桑的石墙、基址与瞭望塔遗迹。四周环绕着壮美的高原风光——雪山巍峨、草甸辽阔、牦牛悠然，游客置身其间，既能感受历史的厚重，亦能饱览自然的雄奇。

Tajik home interior decoration 塔吉族克室内装饰

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Golden Grassland (Jincaotan) 金草滩

Golden Grassland lies right next to the ancient Stone City. It was October, the golden autumn season, and under the highland sun, the entire meadow shimmered with a brilliant golden glow.

This is a lush, water-rich wetland, with distant snow-capped peaks standing majestically against the sky and the meandering Tashkurgan River winding through like a blue silk ribbon. Cattle and sheep leisurely roamed this natural Tajik pasture, set against the backdrop of the age-old Stone City—together forming a picture of serene, unspoiled beauty.

金草滩紧邻古老的石头城。正值十月金秋，在高原阳光的照射下，整片草滩泛着灿灿金光。这是一片水草丰美的湿地，远处皑皑雪山巍然矗立，近处蜿蜒的塔什库尔干河如一条蓝色丝带穿流而过。牛羊悠闲地漫步于这片塔吉克族的天然牧场，在古老石头城的映衬下，构成一幅浑然天成的绝美画卷。

Black-necked pheasants in Jincaotan 金草滩里的黑水鸡

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Muztagh Ata Glacier Park 慕士塔格峰冰川公园

We stayed another night in Tashkurgan Tajik Autonomous County, and at dawn headed straight for the Mustagh Ata Glacier Park. Although it was only October, the cold already felt piercing. After entering the scenic area, we rode on horseback up the slope, reaching a small summit at around 5,000 meters above sea level. From there, we were finally able to “touch” from close range Mustagh Ata—the world’s 43rd-highest peak, standing at 7,546 meters and widely known as the “Father of Ice Mountains.” In the Kyrgyz language, “Mustagh” means “ice mountain,” and “Ata” means “father,” hence the poetic title. From this vantage point, we could fully admire the grandeur of the glacier, the graceful curves of ice serpents, and the ever-changing forms of ice towers and ice caves.

At the foot of the icy peak lies a meltwater lake known as the “Green Bow Lake.” Its surface is edged with crystalline ice, reflecting a light that feels both cold and gentle under the sun. The surrounding slopes are dotted with jagged rocks and wildflowers, adding touches of life to this stark alpine landscape.

We later hiked down, taking in the magnificent scenery around the glacier. On the drive back to Kashgar, we could still see rivers formed by melting snow at the mountain’s base, nourishing vast wetlands. Figures of people, grazing cattle, and the deep blue sky blended into a tranquil scene, like a painting of a hidden paradise.

在塔什库尔干塔吉克自治县又住了一宿，清晨便直奔慕士塔格冰川公园。虽只是十月，但寒意已近刺骨。进入景区后，我们骑马攀行，抵达海拔约5000米的小山顶。从那里，终于得以近距离“触摸”世界第43高峰、被誉为“冰山之父”的慕士塔格峰（海拔7546米）。在柯尔克孜语中，“慕士塔格”意为“冰山”，“阿塔”意为“父亲”，合起来正是“冰山之父”的意思。这里可以尽览冰川的雄浑壮阔、冰蛇的蜿蜒秀丽，以及冰塔、冰洞千姿百态的奇观。

冰峰脚下，融雪汇聚成一汪“绿弓湖”。湖面覆着晶莹冰棱，在阳光下折射出冷峻而柔和的光泽。周围山坡间，奇石嶙峋，野花点缀，为这片高寒之地增添了生机。

我们随后步行下山，细细领略冰山四周的壮丽风光。驱车返回喀什的途中，仍能看到冰山脚下融雪汇成的河流，滋养出大片湿地。人影、牛群与湛蓝天空相映成景，宛如一幅静谧的世外桃源画卷。

Oytak Town, Home of Mustagh Ata 奥依塔克镇, 慕士塔格峰所在地。

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Xinjiang Wensu Salt Hill Geopark 新疆温宿盐丘地质公园

新疆温宿盐丘地质公园

Setting out from Kashgar, we drove for six hours to reach the first stop of Wensu Grand Canyon, also known as Xinjiang Wensu Salt Hill Geopark. This relatively lesser-known destination in Xinjiang is quiet and unspoiled—exactly the kind of place we were looking for.

Upon entering the park, the first sight to greet us was its most iconic feature: the core salt-diapir structure. Rare on a global scale, it has been hailed as a “living museum of geological evolution.” The landform originated from inland lake sediments deposited some 26 million years ago. Over millions of years, wind erosion, flooding, and powerful gusts sculpted the terrain into its present form. Under tectonic stress, layers of salt and sedimentary rock underwent viscous flow, while prolonged weathering shaped the tops into tower-like formations. The result is a landscape that combines characteristics of salt-karst formations with the dramatic features of Yadan landforms.

White salt rock intertwines with reddish-brown strata, creating striking contrasts of color. Along the cliffs hang bead-like salt stalactites and delicate salt crystals, glistening in the sunlight. Some of the formations inevitably spark the imagination—including a few I captured in my photographs, which prompted knowing smiles.

从喀什出发，驱车六个小时，我们抵达了温宿大峡谷的第一站，即新疆温宿盐丘地质公园。这里属于新疆相对小众的旅游目的地，清静而原始，正合我们的心意。

进入景区，首先映入眼帘的是最核心、也是最具代表性的“盐丘底劈构造”。这种地质构造在世界范围内极为罕见，被誉为“活的地质演变史博物馆”。该地貌形成于约2600万年前的内陆湖泊沉积层，历经亿万年风雨侵蚀、洪水冲刷与强风吹蚀而逐渐塑形。盐层与沉积岩在地壳应力作用下产生黏滞流动，顶部经长期风化剥蚀后形成塔状地貌，既具有盐溶喀斯特特征，又兼具雅丹地貌的独特景观。

白色盐岩与红褐色岩层交错相间，色彩对比鲜明。崖壁间还分布着珠帘般的盐钟乳石与盐石花，在阳光下晶莹剔透。某些景观的形态难免令人浮想联翩——包括我拍下的几张照片，更是引人会心一笑。

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Wensu Grand Canyon or Tomur Grand Canyon温宿大峡谷或托穆尔大峡谷

After a two-hour stop at the Salt Hill Geopark, we noticed the sky darkening and hurriedly made our way to the main scenic area of Wensu Grand Canyon. Also known as the Tomur Grand Canyon, Wensu Grand Canyon consists of three main valleys arranged in a “川” (river-like) pattern, twelve branch valleys, and hundreds of smaller tributary valleys. Shaped by billions of years of wind, rain, and flood erosion, it has finally formed the magnificent scene we see today.

We drove along the central main valley deep into the heart of the canyon, arriving at the Colorful Grand Canyon. The canyon’s main structure is composed of reddish-brown rock formations, earning it the nickname “Geological Landscape Garden.” In this vast “garden,” visitors can take in a variety of precious geological relics, including Danxia landforms, Yardang landforms, saline karst formations, and wind-eroded landscapes.

Inside the canyon, the rock walls are distinctly layered, with intense colors, towering cliffs, and striking peaks of myriad shapes. One particularly eye-catching feature is the “Source of Life” landscape. The undulating terrain seems to have been sculpted by supernatural forces, and under the glow of the crimson sunset, it appears even more mysterious and magnificent.

在盐丘地质公园停留了两个小时后，眼见天色渐晚，我们便匆匆赶往温宿大峡谷的主景区。温宿大峡谷又称托木尔大峡谷，由三条呈“川”字形排列的主谷、十二条支谷以及上百条小支谷组成，历经亿万年风雨与洪水的冲刷侵蚀，方才形成今日这般恢宏景象。

我们沿着中间的主谷深入腹地，抵达多彩大峡谷。峡谷主体由红褐色山体构成，堪称地貌大观园。在这片“大观园”中，可以一览丹霞地貌、雅丹地貌、岩盐喀斯特以及风蚀地貌等多种珍贵的地质遗迹。

峡谷内岩壁褶皱分明，色彩浓烈，绝壁高耸，奇峰兀立，形态万千。其中名为“生命之源”的景观尤为引人注目。起伏错落的地貌仿佛鬼斧神工，在绛红色余晖的映照下，更显神秘与壮丽。

Source of Life 生命之源

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139 Populus Euphratica Secret Road 139 胡杨林秘境公路

After spending a night in Aksu, we set out early in the morning for the long-anticipated poplar forest.

The Euphrates poplar, known in Uyghur as “Tokhrak,” means “the most beautiful tree.” It possesses extraordinary resilience—living for a thousand years without falling, standing for another thousand years even after falling, and remaining preserved for yet another thousand years after death. For this reason, it is often called the “hero tree of the desert.” Most of the world’s Euphrates poplars grow in China, and over 90% of them are concentrated in the Tarim River Basin of Xinjiang, including the Aksu region.

The place we visited, 139 Poplar Secret Scenic Park, is located in Shaya County of the Aksu region and is home to one of the largest natural Euphrates poplar forests in the world. Although I had seen countless photographs before, standing in front of that vast sea of golden trees was still deeply overwhelming. The poplar is a symbol of vitality. In the dry desert or beside a small pool of water, it grows tenaciously. Whether straight and tall or twisted and gnarled, each tree reaches toward the sky with a spirit of perseverance.

As we drove away along the highway, rows of sand-control nets stretched along both sides of the road, a visible reminder of the tremendous efforts made by local people to hold back the advancing desert.

在阿克苏住了一宿，清晨便前往心慕已久的胡杨林。

胡杨，维吾尔语称“托克拉克”，意为“最美丽的树”。它拥有极其顽强的生命力——生千年而不倒，倒千年而不死，死千年而不朽，因此也被称为“沙漠英雄树”。世界上绝大多数胡杨生长在中国，而中国90%以上的胡杨又集中分布在新疆塔里木河流域，包括阿克苏地区。

我们前往的139胡杨秘境公园，位于阿克苏地区的沙雅县，这里拥有世界上面积最大的原始胡杨林之一。虽然在图片中早已见过无数次，但当真正站在那片金黄如海的胡杨林前时，我仍然被深深震撼。胡杨是生命力的象征，在干旱的沙漠中，在一汪浅水旁，都能顽强生长。无论是挺拔笔直，还是枝干扭曲，它们都向天空伸展，透着一种不屈不挠的力量。

离开胡杨林沿公路返回时，道路两旁密布着防沙网，可以看出当地人为抵御沙漠侵袭所付出的巨大努力。

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Cotton in Xinjiang – The Facts We See 新疆的棉花-眼见为实

Cotton Field 棉田

October is the harvest season. There is no need to search for cotton fields—they appear everywhere along the highway, entering your view wherever you drive. Vast stretches of white cotton seem to extend endlessly toward the horizon.

Here is what I later learned from online sources: in 2025, Xinjiang produces nearly 93% of China’s cotton. The cotton planting area reached about 2.59 million hectares, accounting for roughly 20% of the world’s cotton production. Several factors make Xinjiang ideal for cotton cultivation: long hours of sunshine and a dry climate, large, flat farmland suitable for mechanized farming, and irrigation supplied by snowmelt from the Tian Shan and other surrounding mountains. In addition, advanced agricultural technology and mechanized harvesting further enhance efficiency.

Together, these advantages contribute to high yields and large-scale production. The cotton industry in Xinjiang provides over one million jobs in farming, processing, and textile manufacturing, and generates tens of billions of dollars in industrial output.

This section is also informed by my own observations while driving across the region. From planting and harvesting to transportation and storage, nearly every step of the process is fully mechanized, with little to no manual labor involved. Occasionally stopping along the route allowed me to witness firsthand the immense scale and efficiency of cotton production in Xinjiang.

十月正值棉花收获的季节。沿着公路行驶，你几乎不需要刻意去寻找棉田——无论车开到哪里，棉田都会自然映入眼帘。大片大片洁白的棉花向远方延伸，仿佛一直铺展到地平线。

后来我从网上了解到：到2025年，新疆生产了中国近93%的棉花。当年棉花种植面积约为259万公顷，约占全球棉花产量的20%。新疆之所以成为重要的棉花产区，主要得益于多方面的条件：充足的日照和干燥的气候，广阔平坦、适合机械化作业的农田，以及来自天山等周边山脉融雪的灌溉水源。此外，先进的农业技术和高度机械化的采收方式也极大提高了生产效率。

这些因素共同造就了高产量和大规模的棉花生产。新疆棉花产业为农业种植、加工和纺织等领域提供了超过一百万个就业岗位，每年创造数百亿美元的工业产值。

这一部分内容也源于我在新疆自驾途中亲眼所见的观察。从播种、采收、运输到储存，整个生产过程几乎全部实现机械化，几乎看不到人工操作。偶尔停车驻足，更能直观地感受到新疆棉花生产的规模之大与效率之高。

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Harvesting 收棉花

Harvesting trucks move busily through the fields, collecting cotton. There are no workers picking or hauling it by hand. Modern farming methods are widely used, with the mechanization rate for planting and harvesting exceeding 90–97% in many areas. Large mechanical cotton pickers, along with digital farming technologies, greatly improve efficiency and productivity.

收获季节里，采收车辆在棉田间忙碌穿梭，不断收集棉花。看不到有人在田间手工采摘或搬运。现代化农业方式在这里被广泛应用，在许多地区，播种和采收的机械化率已超过90%至97%。大型机械采棉机以及数字化农业技术的使用，大大提高了生产效率。

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Piles of compressed cotton scattered in the fields 散布在田野中压缩后的棉花堆

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Trucks transport the piles of cotton to storage facilities or textile factories 卡车将田间的棉花堆运送到仓储设施或纺织工厂

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A warehouse stacked with cotton piles 堆满棉花的仓库

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Chili Pepper Farm 辣椒农场

Xinjiang is a major global hub for chili pepper production, accounting for roughly 20% of China’s total dried chili output. This is likely the largest chili pepper farm I encountered during my trip to Xinjiang.

新疆是全球重要的辣椒生产基地，约占中国干辣椒总产量的20%。这可能是我在新疆旅行中见过的最大的辣椒农场。

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Chinese Red Dates ( Jujubes) 红枣

Chinese red dates (also known as jujubes) are perhaps the most famous fruit produced in Xinjiang. When we passed an orchard growing the famous Aksu dates, we couldn’t resist stopping and walking in to pick a few fresh dates to taste. The dates were fully ripe and gave off a rich, distinctive aroma; they were so ripe that they would almost fall off the branch at the slightest touch. Despite a thin layer of dust covering the dates , we just went ahead to taste them any away. I have to admit, they were the sweetest, most fragrant, and freshest dates I have ever tasted.

中国红枣（也称为枣子）或许是新疆最著名的水果。当我们经过一片种植着著名阿克苏枣的果园时，忍不住停下来走进去，采摘几颗红枣尝尝鲜。枣子已经完全成熟，散发着独特而浓郁的香气；熟得几乎轻轻一碰就会掉下来。虽然枣子的表面蒙着一层薄薄的灰尘，我们也顾不上是否干净，直接放入口中品尝。我不得不承认，这是我吃过的最甜美、最芳香、也最新鲜的枣子。

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Other Dry Fruits in A Supermarket 超市里的其他干果

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Sunflower 向日葵

Sunflowers are also a major crop in Xinjiang, accounting for about 16% of the national output. Vast “seas” of sunflowers have become a popular attraction for agritourism. As we passed a large sunflower field, we couldn’t help but stop to admire the sunflower up close. We paid about 15 Chinese yuan for two sunflower heads, and I continued eating the seeds all the way back to Shanghai.

向日葵也是新疆的主要作物之一，约占全国产量的16%。广袤的“向日葵海”已成为农业旅游的热门景点。经过一大片向日葵田时，我们忍不住停下来近距离欣赏。我们花了大约15元人民币买了两颗向日葵花头。我一直吃着葵花籽，直到到了上海。

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Goats and Sheep (collectively called Yang in Chinese)

When people mention Xinjiang, roasted goat or lamb is usually the first thing that comes to mind. Indeed, the taste and flavor of Xinjiang’s barbecued goat and lamb are unmatched compared to other regions. The quality of the meat is exceptional, which explains why these animals are the backbone of the region’s pastoral economy and culture. Here, I want to show how the sheep thrive, both on the farms and in the forests and wild pastures.

提到新疆，人们首先想到的通常是烤羊或烤山羊。事实上，新疆的烤羊肉和烤山羊肉在口味和香气上都无与伦比，远胜于其他地区。这些动物的肉质优良，也难怪它们成为了该地区畜牧经济和文化的支柱。在这里，我展示一下在农场, 林地和野外牧场中自由成长的羊。

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Local Restaurant (Uyghur style) 本地餐厅 (维吾尔风味）

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Xinjiang Locals 新疆当地人

Contrary to common perception, Xinjiang is home to many ethnic groups—56 in total. The Uyghurs and Han Chinese are the two largest, each accounting for roughly 40–45% of the region’s population.

These groups have lived together in the region for over a thousand years and, currently, coexist harmoniously.

With mutual respect and understanding, I really hope they will continue to live together peacefully for generations to come.

与普遍认知相反，新疆是多民族聚居的地区，共有56个民族。其中维吾尔族和汉族是两大主要民族，各自约占全区人口的40%至45%。这些民族在这里共同生活已有千余年，目前看来，他们相安无事。真心希望在相互尊重与理解的基础上，他们能够和睦共处， 世代同心。

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